I have to admit that Contrast has changed my painting quite a bit, even though I never actually use it for painting whole miniatures as advertised. But to save time on organic textures and smaller details like all those pouches and belts that won’t catch your attention, they are fantastic. They’re also great for thinning into washes or glazes. I used Contrast glazes to shade my classic 2nd Edition Ultramarine, for example.

Similarly, you can probably get in some variation on the woods for the muskets, which are the next step. They tend to be fairly flat on most models, so I generally painted the wood a solid color and left them be. The metallics I kept pretty plain, as I didn’t want to make them look too parade-ground polished. There are some brass details here as well, which you’ll find on the basket hilts of the swords as well as in some details on the musket. Add some decals for the chapter insignia and use Microsol to make them better adhere the rounded surface of the shoulder guards. I also added a red-and-ivory-freehand to the left kneepad, see steps 17 to 20 for painting ivory, and steps 26, 29, and 31 for painting red. Paint Guns with Citadel Contrast Snakebite Leather or Citadel Contrast Wyldwood (Wood) and Citadel Contrast Space Wolves Grey (Metal) (I substituted Vallejo Brown Ink as I didn’t have any Snakebite leather this stage)Deserts aren’t the place to find sand. What if you want your minis to be storming beaches, coming out of the water? What if you want to do sand effects, but don’t want an army on drab, plain desert bases (though the monotony of desert bases is also kind of the point, really)? In today’s How to Paint Everything we’re talking about how to capture that look and fell on your models’ bases. Reference Material

Also if you’re feeling particularly nostalgic, Bob Ross used to paint a ton of seascapes and you can catch re-runs of the Joy of Painting on Twitch these days, usually streaming on Fridays. A lot of the same color principles and tactics Bob uses can be applied to how you paint water, plus the show is just very relaxing to watch. Based on the concepts of color theory, particularly the use of complementary colors and contrast, it was decided to enumerate these particular paints. Because red and green are complementary hues, they can highlight one another when combined. Despite not being a true green, Basilicanum Grey has chilly undertones that pair well with Mephiston Red’s warm undertones.When I last painted ruins like this, contrast didn’t exist, which mean that doing the beige stone wall took a surprisingly huge amount of effort. My hope was that this time I could use a substantially faster process thanks to the advent of the newer paints. I also wanted to shortcut some of the metal detailing if I possibly could, because I was definitely stung by the memory of how long getting these first lot done had taken. Finally, although the structural parts of the ruins are very similar, the details on the panels are different, with a more industrial theme than the Imperialis ruins. I decided to go with the box art for these and paint them metalic red, figuring that when I put these on the table I can have an Imperialis and a Manufactorum half of the board to make them look a bit distinct (which lines up with some of the other stuff I have for Dense and Difficult pieces nicely). After I posted my contrast nmm gold tutorial recently I had a few people asking for a steel tutorial using the same contrast technique. I loved painting each and everyone of these models and I’m super pumped for the separate box releases of the Skeletons and Zombies. With that your model is done! Just base them how you want and you’re good to go. I went with a nice desert look for the Setrakh Dynasty. As with all my Kruleboyz, I wanted the Hobgrots to have the pale blue flesh of creatures who aren’t accustomed to seeing much sunlight. I also figured they wouldn’t have access to a wide array of materials to make armor/clothes/kit, so there’s a very utilitarian feel to their gear. It also has the added bonus of being very efficient to paint and it helps to unify the scheme across a very diverse set of models. This scheme is very straightforward, but also very effective. I use a LOT of non-GW paints on my models. You can achieve the same results with GW paints in similar colors, I just use other paint lines and have for a long time. The exact paints are less important than the colors and the techniques!

Highlight flesh with thinned Citadel Death Guard Green and the off-white areas with Citadel Karak Stone. The bases were GW texture paint, that after the overspray from the original airbrushing, were washed with the same dull green I used on the metals, spotted washes of Vallejo dark green, some additional browns pushed around the edges of the greens and then all washed with GW. Nuln Oil “Gloss” to give the ground the damp-swamp feel.Paint the trumpet white, then wash with your choice of yellow contrast paint. I chose Nazdreg yellow. Zealot Yellow is a little more orange than Iyanden Yellow, Fire Giant Orange a little more tomato red. Blood Red and Blood Angels Red are almost identical. Slaughter Red is a bit more crimson and produces slightly more prominent highlights, whereas Flesh Tearers Red is a little darker. Purple Alchemy is clearly darker than Volupus Pink and should perhaps be thinned with a little bit of Speedpaint Medium. Hive Dweller Purple is also slightly darker than Shyish Purple, but dries much less patchy. Using a piece of foam I sponged on some Stormhost Silver . I only did this on areas that would make sense for wear and tear, such as hard edges. This gives a nice worn look in a random pattern. Use this sparingly. There are a bunch of different ways you can do this; I try to mix in a lot of basing details to break up the monotony and help create the visual reminder that these were buildings with taller walls and ceilings. Plasticard sheets also work well here to create flatter base textures that suggest proper flooring and tiles.

Another sponsored “painting guide” forgetting one picture’s worth. Those serried ranks give little or no help in the painting process. Finish the armour with a crisp edge highlight of Dawnstone. The key is to make this highlight even thinner and leaving some of the Dark Grey visible. This requires a lot of brush control, I like to use the smallest brush I can find, which is a Winsor & Newton Series 7M 000, though you can achieve this technique with any high-quality kolinsky sable brush if the tip is pointy enough. As I mentioned above, my Krulboyz hero scheme is based on the Blue-Tongued skink. Initially I was going to carry the blue spot color motif forward onto the heroes, but ultimately decided that that didn’t make as much narrative sense. The Hobgrots are subservient to the larger Kruleboyz. Instead, I decided to carry the Hobgrotz skin forward as the leather worn by the hero. It’s a vicious society and any Hobgrot that steps out of line is turned into hides. Paint the external frames (side posts and roof frame) with Dryad Bark.Airbrush (or lightly drybrush) yellow OSL for the lights with Flash Gitz Yellow.

Black

Normally I’d claim my guide is super fast but since RichyP probably finished his Cursed City collection in the time it took for you to read this sentence, I’ll have to settle for “easy”