Don’t forget, whilst the general measurements we take are for the height, chest, waist and hip – if you have any special requirements then you will need to let us know. This could mean that you have longer arms than average or a shorter torso. As we are unable to fully measure your body like a tailor would, or use our telepathic skills like Doctor Strange, we rely on you to let us know – plus no one else knows your body as you do. I created paper templates for the pieces, then attached them to me, took a picture, and modified as required. An eye test isn't always enough. What looks good to the eye, may look small/large in an image.Test fit wearing the flight suit. It can be a pain, but it ensures accuracy.

If you are feeling hero enough to take on the challenge of being your very own Deadpool then there is no other costume for you.

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Since the helmet should have a paint finish, I used Half-time filler over the joints and in a few rough spots. As soon as it flashes and becomes solid, start sanding. It's easier to sand at that stage than when fully cured. All foam gets heat treated before paint. A heat gun pointed at the foam for a few seconds will do it. The foam will become a bit darker and develop a sheen. This seals the foam so it absorbs less paint.Once the foam is sealed spray the foam with Plasti-dip. It's a durable, flexible base for the color. There are other options like thinning PVA glue (white Elmer's glue). I've never tried it. I used acrylic caulk for the seams of the helmet and shoulders. Thinning it with water and using your finger works well. Forget about your usual clothing size! Whether you are from the US, UK, or usually wear European sizes – our costumes are made in a variety of different materials with specialized stitching and parts, so your usual size will not apply here. Rustoleum spray paint (1) can each (7 total): satin Chestnut Brown, Flat Red, metallic silver, satin Smokey Beige, satin Oasis Blue, metallic Bronze, stain Granite

Weathering is the final stage of painting. It gives the armor a used and worn look. Think about how things would wear. While the bottom edge of the cape doesn't look dirty, it should be. I didn't paint it because I ran out of time. Some of the costumes come with optional quality boots and shoes, so don’t forget to select this option if necessary.Never use a cleaning product or stain remover to remove a stain. Instead, bring your piece to a professional cleaning service as soon as possible. Once the stain is removed, take the plastic cover off and allow your piece to air out before putting away. With boots, we will need some more measurements due to the variations in calf size and leg length, however, there is a handy guide on how to measure and what we will need from you.

To obtain more precise measurements ensure that you are wearing thin, tight clothing so that any dimensions taken are as close to your body shape as possible. There is a very small margin for error. Cloth goods will be dirtier under armpits, at knees, and bottom of pant legs. If I had time I would have sprayed the chest plate vest and torso wrap with a watered down dark acrylic. If you do not fit into the category of the standard size then a customized costume is the option for you. If you haven't heat treated the foam, do that prior to plasti-dip. The foam will darken very slightly. If it darkens a lot, you're burning it. I used acrylic caulk over all the joints. A cup of water and my finger smooth out the joints and make them smooth. If I were doing this again, I might go over the entire helmet with watered down acrylic caulk. That would produces a smoother finish.I started with reference photos. I'm recreating the pre-Beskar armor. I like weathered and beat up props, and they're more fun to make. Plus I know I don't want to pay for a good looking chrome finish like Alclad and it takes time to get an automotive quality finish. I don't have time to sand/prime/sand for that perfect look.