You can now pull the link into its closed position. If using an 8 or 9-speed link, you can now simply pull the link shut with your hands, although you may need to squeeze the link together at the same time. While Wippermann Connex and just about all 8 and 9-speed links can be removed by hand, the rest require an element (or a lot!) of force. A dedicated tool is worth owning if you plan on re-using a link. There’s no shortage of master link pliers on the market. I tried and compared all that are pictured. Note how the Park Tool on the left features jaws designed to open and close links, while the Topeak on the right can only be used to squeeze (open) links. The Unior (right) was the highest quality tool tested and a pleasure to use, but it’s only good for opening links. I wanted to also get an opinion from an impartial tech expert, so I sent the same question to one of my most trusted industry friends — someone with extensive current experience testing all brands and models of connecting links. He prefers to remain anonymous.

What I use is Wipperman Connex links. They’re a mechanical fit, not a press/snap fit. Not tools are needed to install or remove them, which is what I like about them most (be sure to orient them correctly following the instructions – it’s not that obvious how it’s done). Mine have always run smooth and quiet. That’s what I’d try if I were you even though they do cost more. Hope this helps and thanks for the great comments. KMC and Wippermann (Connex Link) produce universal chainlinks compatible with all 12, 11, 10, 9, and 8-speed chains regardless of brand. Thanks for your reply: helpful, as were other comments. I must say I haven’t felt entirely confident in my understanding of the situation – because it didn’t make sense to me, and still doesn’t, really. Removing and replacing removes enough metal to make a difference? Is that observable somehow? Is there some number of reuses at which the link becomes prone to falling apart? Does lubrication make any difference? My 11 speed chains last about 6,000 kms before they are -05% worn. I recently moved to waxing, which needs redoing every 200 kms, which will be 30 times per chain, so the economics of not reusing links are not good. Assuming SRAM chains, does it make any difference which ‘reusable’ link I use? Comparative prices from Bike24 are Wipperman Connex E14.51, KMC E4.61 compared with SRAM E2.76. Does anything about the performance of a Wipperman link justify the extra cost? What is connecting link performance? Noise? The failures I have seen in testing are in two places. First, at the pin / outer plate junction. On one I had fail on my bike, I literally saw the pin fall out of the outer plate on the side where it was (previously) permanently fixed at the factory.

How to install a quick link

For that reason, you may experience some stiffness, but it shouldn’t be too noticeable nor a problem. Universal Chain Links If that happens, the unsuspecting rider re-tensions the chain only to experience a very sudden failure. And, as I’m sure you’ve seen or perhaps had happen to you, this usually results in a bad crash. So, again, please advise your readers for their own safety to not reuse the links.”

Shimano’s TL-CN10 tool is by far and away the best available, simply because it works to open and close links with a leverage advantage. This a huge asset when dealing with tight links, and no other tool I tested has this feature (note: It seems this tool is sourced from Super-B, who also offer such a tool, albeit with simpler handles. And X-Tools also now offer a version of this). KMC comes close, in that it’s the only other tool to offer a squeezing action in closing a link, however, it’s a separate tool to the link opening version and so you’ll need to buy two tools to do what the Shimano achieves in one. Just about every tool brand offers a master link plier and they all do much the same role and in the same way. They simply hook into the rollers of the chain and work to squeeze the master link open.

Quick link compatibility

For 10, 11 or 12-speed links, you’ll need to use tools to open the link. If you plan on replacing the chain and don’t have the tools to undo the link, you can use a chain breaker on any chain pin other than the master link to remove the chain. Before getting to the technical Q & A, I goofed last week and didn’t show you Bruce Ross’s favorite bike bling saddle. It’s this tri-color masterpiece by Busyman Bicycles. Nice, huh? Bicycle chains’ width differs according to the number of speeds that the bike has. More speeds require a narrower chain because there are more cogs on the cassette/freewheel.