An Arduino Shield is a component that can be placed over the Arduino and all the pins of the shield line up with the receptacles in the Arduino. This arrangement makes it very easy to have multiple components without worrying about the logistics of the wiring. This is where the robot pictured will differ from the robot that will be produced from this Instructable. The pictured robot uses a different version of the Seeedstudio Motor Shield, a version 1.2 instead of version 2.0. The 2.0 version is an improvement as it doesn't use the proprietary Grove style connectors, and it is now possible to use jumpers instead, which are cheaper.

Robot Base - Fighters All-terrain Vehicle Technology Tracked Robot Base - Fighters All-terrain Vehicle Technology

This chassis works with four AA batteries. We recommend using rechargeable AA NiMH cells, which results in a nominal voltage of 4.8V (1.2V per cell). When the batteries are fully charged, they will be well above 5V, and when they are almost spent, they will be well below 5V. As such, you might consider using a step-up/step-down voltage regulator to power your logic, since this will hold your logic voltage steady at 5 V, no matter if your battery voltage is above or below 5V. You can also use alkaline cells, which would nominally give you 6V, but that voltage would drop depending on the load. Basic sumo blade (not included) Programs in the Arduino language are called sketches. Load this sample sketch and your robot will be zooming around in no time! If you have problems with the .ino file, the program is included below in bold, just copy and paste into the Arduino executable window.For this chassis, the differential drive movement is used based on four separately driven wheels placed on either side of the robot body. In this case, we have to connect two DC motors from one side of the chassis to one channel of the motor drive, and the other two DC motors to the second channel. The terminals M1A-M1B and M2A-M2B are used for connecting the electric motors to the motor driver. The basic chassis kit comes with 130 size motors, but they are 3 volt motors that pull too much current when stalled. Replacing them with Pololu #1117 motors of a higher voltage means that less current will be pulled through the drivers when stalled. This keeps the motor drivers from burning out. Jumper a wire from the Trigger pin on the sensor to the digital pin 7 marked D7 on the Motor Shield. The 12V gear-box electric motors are ideal for this small robotic chassis and provide enough power to move the platform at the maximum speed of 300 rotations per minute. The Sabertooth 2 X 25A motor driver has two channels to control at least two DC motors on each pipe. The chassis is running on four DC motors, so we have to connect all these to two channels.

Robot Tracks for Different Kinds of UGV Robots Custom Robot Tracks for Different Kinds of UGV Robots

Alternatively, it is possible to set up an array of multiple ultrasonic sensors, much like a fly's eye, with each sensor measuring distance from a different angle. The controller accepts analog, RC, and TTL serial input. For testing the chassis, it used the remote control method.

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Once the chassis is assembled and all the profiles are aligned, we can attach components to this frame. 2. How to build the drive system