This vast and popular park on the southern fringes of Sri Lanka’s Hill Country is mostly covered with low-lying scrub, so seeing Sri Lanka’s majestic elephants is very close to a dead cert. While Sinharaja Forest Reserve is Sri Lanka's top destination for birders, small Lahugala National Park is well worth visiting for avian encounters. Come in the late afternoon, when you can also watch elephants and buffalo grazing peacefully in the water-logged beru grass. The park's forests of tall satinwood, rosewood, and palu trees are home to dozens of species of forest birds, including the rare red-faced malkoha.

Traditionally, Sri Lankans eat with their right hand, using the tips of their fingers to mix rice and curry into little balls, and their thumb to gently push the food into their mouths. You may be encouraged to try this if you are invited into a local home for a meal, but always wash your hands first for hygiene reasons. Avoid eating (or shaking hands) with your left hand as it is used for less sanitary tasks such as personal ablutions. 15. Tipping is customary Planning tip: Other than local families, travelers, and daily commuters, you'll find plenty of vendors on the trains selling cups of tea, instant coffee, chili-sprinkled fresh fruits, roasted peanuts, yogurt, and even mobile top-up cards. 8. Feast on Sri Lankan crabs While elephants are the main attraction, Kumana is also a bird lover's paradise; keen birders might spot 100 species in one day. And, with an estimated 40 leopards roaming around, this park offers a very real chance of spotting Sri Lanka's most famous predator without being surrounded by other jeeps. The trip from Colombo to Kandy is just a warm-up for Sri Lanka’s most beautiful train ride: the British-era Main Line, built as a conduit for Sri Lanka’s most famous export: tea. Kalpitiya is a 35km (22-mile) peninsula that juts out from the northwest coast near Puttalam. Firs flank a beach that extends almost uninterrupted to the very tip of the peninsula, where there’s a ruined Dutch Fort. To the east lies the vast Puttalam Lagoon, where the dancing sails of kite-surfers color the skies during the windier, off-season months of May to September. MawellaWhile Sri Lanka's elephant orphanages have a mixed reputation, there are a few ethical operators close to Uda Walawe, in case you haven’t quite had your fill of cute jumbo toddlers. Start with the Elephant Transit Home, supported by the Born Free Foundation. The park merges with the northern tip of Wasgamuwa National Park, and elephants can occasionally be seen wandering into the park fringes. Polonnaruwa is just a 30-minute drive away along the edge of the wewa, making this park a good choice if you want to combine history and nature in a single day trip from the coast. A great alternative to crowded Yala and Minneriya, and easily reached from the east coast, Kumana National Park offers swampy grasslands and large, salty villus (natural lakes) where elephants wade and storks and ibis gather. On the edge of this watery landscape, the forest harbors spectacular hornbills, colorful minivets, and characterful langurs and macaques. Some train trips are so scenic, they’re an activity in themselves. The six-hour ride from Kandy to Ella, which weaves through seemingly endless tea fields, is right up there among the world’s best train routes. A recently renovated route from Colombo to the historical city of Galle conversely runs on the edge of the west coast, offering mesmeric views of the Indian Ocean. It’s possible to make bookings 30 days in advance for reserved first- and second-class seats and berths, as well as for the observation saloon carriages. Demand often outstrips seat supply during high season (December to April), so plan ahead if you can.

One thing to be mindful of is Sri Lanka’s two monsoon seasons. The northeast monsoon season is from September to March, while the southwest is from May to August. Heavy rain can slow down all kinds of travel, but especially road travel – posing a particular challenge to dirt roads, which might become full of puddles, washed out and unsafe to drive on. You’re better off relying on the trains during the monsoon seasons. The only trade-off is that some train windows are stubborn to close, so there’s a chance you might get a little wet. On most trains, the best spot is on the floor in one of the open doorways between carriages, with the warm breeze blowing through your hair. What should I bring onboard?The best ways to get around in Sri Lanka at any time of year Lahugala Kitulana National Park, Eastern Province Best for combining history with birdwatching Where to try it: For a pol roti meal in Colombo, drop in at the ever-popular Culture Colombo. Not far away is The Cauldron, a charming cafe that dishes up kotthu made with pol roti. Go for a lamprais brunch on Sunday Tourists are less common in Jaffna and the north where a distinct Sri Lankan Tamil Hindu culture predominates. Respect local etiquette when visiting Hindu temples – ask for permission before entering as non-Hindus are barred from entering some shrines. Some temples also require men to remove shirts and enter bare-chested (for example, Jaffna’s vast Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil). 12. Show respect to Buddha images Village buffalo curd: Sri Lanka’s go-to dessert, traditional village buffalo curd comes in clay pots and is traditionally topped with sweet, earthy kithul palm treacle. Goodfolks in Colombo sells kithul palm treacle in bottles.

Domestic flight options are quite limited, which means the main contenders for transportation are trains, buses, tuk-tuks and private cars. We break down what you need to know about each. Take a scenic train journey between major towns and citiesCovering the highest plateau in Sri Lanka, at an elevation of around 2000m (6562ft) above sea level, Horton Plains National Park is a magnificent magnet for birdwatchers and hikers. Whichever camp you fall into, it's worth following the trail from the park’s entrance to World’s End, a blow-you-away lookout with ethereal views, perched on the edge of an 880m (2625ft) drop. Most Lankan curries are based on coconut milk, with a blend of spices – including but not limited to chili, turmeric, cinnamon, cardamom, coriander, lemongrass, rampe (pandanus leaves), curry leaves, mustard, and tamarind. On the way there, you’ll rattle past rolling hills, paddy fields, lush stands of tropical forest, palm trees waving like giant hands and miniature village train stations with tin roofs and station attendants standing at attention in immaculate uniforms. You’ll also feel the air cool as you leave the baking coastal plain for the more pleasant climate of the hills. Many budget hostels around the island shuttered permanently during the pandemic, but you will still come across a few options in big cities and beach towns. Hostel beds cost Rs 2,000-5,000. In low season, luxury hotel rooms and villas drop to around Rs 32,000–50,000 per night. Don’t book long stays in advance Sri Lanka’s tropical beaches are unanimously adored. Crafted from a 1340km (833-mile) coastline, its countless topographically varied beaches, coves and bays attract sun-seekers, fun lovers and surfers throughout the year. Wildlife plays its part too – beaches are vital nesting grounds for endangered marine turtles, while blue whales are sighted at sea.