Cut the recesses: to make sure the door and frame sit snugly together, the hinges need to be sunk (or recessed) into the door and jamb. To do this, use a chisel and hammer to carefully cut out the section you’ve just traced. Make sure these are at a suitable depth for the leaves of your hinge Place and fix the hinge onto the cabinet door, either by putting it into the recess and screwing it in or tracing around the hinge, marking the screw holes, drilling in pilot holes and finally screwing the fixing in place. If your hinge has an arm, this should overhang the cabinet door by about half an inch to ensure the door can open and close properly Measure up: for the door to hang correctly, the recommendation is to place the first hinge five inches from the top of the door and the second hinge ten inches from the bottom. Measure out these distances on the door and the jamb and make a mark. Then place the hinges at the centre of this mark and trace their position A loose top hinge: because this hinge bears most of the weight of the door, if it is sagging or coming away from the top edge, it’s likely to be because the top hinge isn’t screwed in tightly enough, or the screws used aren’t long enough to support the weight. Tightening up or replacing the screws on the top hinge should fix this problem The demand for concealed door hinges is high. This is because these hinges are not visible on unrebated doors when they are closed.

The hinges aren’t in the right place: if a door keeps opening and closing on its own, then it’s likely that the hinges aren’t in the right place to balance the door correctly. Depending on the type of hinge, you may need to take off the hinge, redo the recesses and re-screw the hinge. You can fill in any holes left over in the frame or door with wood and wood filler Butt hinges: made to connect abutting surfaces, these hinges have two leaves with a barrel and pin mechanism Concealed hinges: these mechanisms perform the same function as butt hinges but can’t be seen when the door is closed, allowing for a smoother, invisible aesthetic Piano hinges: longer than a standard butt hinge, these hinges run along the edge of a joining and are often used in pieces of furniture or on cabinet doors Safety is not only the first priority at escape doors. GU hinges meet the high requirements up to resistance class RC 3 in different system tests to EN 1627–1630. Our screw-on hinges for PVC or metal doors fulfil the SKG certification for outward-opening doors required in the Netherlands with up to three stars. Design requirements for the hinge-sideThe way you fit hinges onto your cabinet depends on the design of both elements. The placement of the cabinet and the door will affect where the hinge needs to be fixed and the type of hinge will require different processes to be fitted correctly. Tee hinges: named after their shape, these hinges have a rectangular and tapered leaf which makes them suitable for heavy-weight applications

Flush hinges: flush hinges are designed to sit on top of surfaces and can be installed with no recess needing to be cut, making them ideal for lightweight applications Door hinges are exposed to high axial and radial loads. The hinge plates must also be able to absorb the dynamic forces arising as a result of impacts or mishandling of the door leaf. The hinge mounts must be adapted to the various materials of a door frame. They are screwed to or recessed in timber frames, and are welded onto steel door frames. Hinge mounts that can be adjusted in three dimensions and allow the door leaf to be aligned following installation are normally used.

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Spring hinges: used most often on fire doors or in commercial properties, these hinges have a spring in the centre of the barrel that allows it to close on its own Partially inset, where the inside of the door meets the sides of the cabinet, and the outside of the door partially covers its front edges