Is running the engine with the coolant cap off not common practice to get rid of air bubbles after a coolant change mate? It remains on 90 if I keep the fan on, but the engine fan creates a hell of a noise (not that it matters if it is working). I see it is an old post but just to share an experience; easiest, cheapest and most straight forward solution is to replace the whole tank. so, in the past 8 months its had a brand new head gasket, brand new thermostat, brand new coolant tank cap. While you are waiting for this to happen, you are potentially running it up some very steep hills with an air pocket in the cylinder head, which is the highest point in the engine, and so most likely to have an air pocket.

Have just been outside and managed to pull the little git straight out with a pair of long nose pliers as you say 👍. Any use of content in a manner not expressly authorized constitutes copyright infringement and violators will be prosecuted. You need to be very careful if you do it this way, you could get scalded by steam and boiling water and lose a load of coolant that needs replacing. The OP is unlikely to want to bother with that though, especially as he already has some blowing from the coolant reservoir so couldn’t easily detect any local boiling due to modification.Can anyone help was trying to remove my coolant cap and the thing split apart with the Centre part still in the tank.

I enquired at my main dealer, who said that VW have now changed the intervals to 60000, with the 5 year change being unnecessary, but it.

My main concern is that if I drive it without the internal fan on to accommodate for some of the extra heat, the temperature of the engine (on the dashboard, at least) begins to very slowly climb above 90 degrees. I usually remove and reinstall the coolant reservoir cap every month to prevent it from becoming stuck.

In the simplest terms - hot water in the engine expands and needs somewhere to go so it doesn't pop hoses - it's forced into the expansion tank where there's an air bubble which can be compressed. A while ago we thought the head gasket had gone ,and in the end it turned out the fan was not working maybe It had been sticking on and burn out -and they change the reservoir a new fan - and then it’s been ok. You can of course improve your personal cooling a bit with various supplementary fan and evaporative solutions. As well as the temperature issue, the engine seems to start struggling, stuttering/jerking a little when I am pulling away from idle or accelerating (particularly in low gears) after I have been driving for about 20-25mins, although varies depending on how hot of a day it is so I assume this relates to overheating?

IF the water pump is belt driven, I suppose it might be possible to change the pulley to increase the pumping rate, but I doubt it would be worth the trouble. I have a couple of fridge compressors that I could try, but I'm getting used to the boiling method so I probably won't bother.

Check the owner’s manual to find your vehicle’s correct engine coolant—different engine types require different coolants. unclip the two upper hoses by hand, unclip tank from the holding plates, drain in jar through the openings where you unclipped the houses, use the pliers to unclamp the main hose, pull the tank away from the hose.

I had a similar problem years ago and finally cured it by running it up a very steep hill, not difficult finding steep hills in South Wales! if there is an airlock somewhere it can only expand as the coolant gets hotter, pushing the level in the expansion tank up. It will however, also slow your engines warmup times, and if you’ve got any starting difficulties now, perhaps from a bit of coolant getting into the cylinders, they’ll probably get worse. It'll only do that if it leaks coolant into the combustion chamber, or blows its coolant out / overheats during testing. Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I am desperately trying to keep the car going until Sept/Oct when I will be looking to replace it altogether.