It gives my images that organic feeling that I suppose film has. It’s the imperfection that the diffusion causes that makes it unique. The blooming of lights and the reduction of sharpness on the overall image is what will give unique looking images, in-camera. This can be just as helpful whether you want to create a more atmospheric shot in a portrait, or you want to shoot a sunset shot where the low sun is rendering everything in shadow as a harsh silhouette. The 10%is our more popular filter density because of its perfect middle ground. While more of a noticeability than the 5%, our 10% CineBloom filters offer an angelic glaze in all the right places.

I programmed into my Fujifilm X-T5 eight different Film Simulation Recipes, and shot with all of them. How was I able to program eight? Well, obviously, there’s C1-C7. On the X-T5 (as well as my X-E4 and a few other newer models), you can program an additional Recipe into the IQ menu. As you scroll through C1-C7, when you’re in-between C7 and C1, the camera will display the shooting mode (either P, A, S, or M, depending on the configuration of your dials), and it will select the settings programmed into the IQ menu, giving you a bonus eighth custom preset. Protects the front element of a lens from dust, dirt, moisture, and potential scratches. High-quality UV filters can be permanently mounted on lenses with a minimum impact on image quality. Polarizing Filter Also known as “diopter”, a close-up filter allows a lens to focus closer on subjects. These filters are only used for macro photography. SPX FilterThe reverse GND is a specialized filter used by landscape photographers when shooting against the sun while it is getting close to the horizon. While a regular GND filter gradually transitions from dark to clear towards the center, reverse GND filter transitions from dark to less dark from the center to the edge. Color Filter I was using it with an iPhone, so it wasn’t just a phone anymore. I often shoot from the hip without having people notice and I can often get away with it. But, with the filter, people tend to look, which is different. But I must also say, this only happens in certain scenarios.

CineBloom diffusion filters are a great way to take the “digital edge” off of your photographs, giving them an analog-like feel. Diffusion filters have been popular in cinematography for awhile, and people are beginning to realize that they’re great for still photography, too. These filters pair especially well with my Film Simulation Recipes, and are a wonderful tool for the JPEG photographer. The Moment Diffusion filter employs fine white nanoparticles, but it doesn’t feature any coatings. As a result, you achieve a soft mist filter effect with an added haze from the way light interacts with the filter. The light hits the filter, causing additional ghosting and flare, which then interacts with the nanoparticles to create a more organic, classic feel.Filters help to eliminate glare and distortion, improve contrast, reduce lens light, and more. Each lens filter is designed to provide a particular effect to increase the ultimate look of an image. In extremely difficult conditions they may be essential for capturing scenery, improve color and minimize reflections, or they may simply protect lenses. Camera Lens Filters in photography and film are commonly used and although some use filters only in rare cases, others rely on filters for their daily work. What are Camera Lens Filters and How Do They Work? I’m sure the Sandmarc case isn’t the only one that allows you to use filters, but it is the one we got, and so far it seems to be a quality product. It works well and is reasonably inexpensive, so it’s easy to recommend. It did take a fall; while the case kept the phone safe and undamaged (which is great!), it did leave a noticeable mark on the case itself. Another note: Sandmarc has their own line of filters— including a diffusion filter—but we used the 20% CineBloom because I already own it for my Fujifilm X100V. I personally really like CineBlooms, but the brand of diffusion filter doesn’t really matter all that much, I don’t think. These numerical percentages next to the filter’s name are confusing to some, so let’s discuss what these mean and how to choose which one is right for you. When it comes to film photography, using the Cinebloom on a film camera sometimes can be on and off. Correct me if I’m wrong. It might and might not work in some situations, in which I have done experiments on my film cameras. I can’t find any source about the Moment Cinebloom on film cameras, so I decided to explain it here.

I’ve been asked a few times recently what adapter and filters I use on my Fujifilm X100V. I will state right off the bat that my choices aren’t necessarily the “best” ones, it’s just what I’ve done. There are likely better options, and perhaps different choices that would be better for you, so keep that in mind. With that said, let me get right into the adapter and filters that I use on my Fujifilm X100V. Please choose the 67mm filters if you'd like them to be compatible with the Lens Filter Mount and the Phone Filter mount. So, if you’re shooting a subject with a big diffused light source (like a window), the light is going to be diffused outward, creating a sort of glowing fog-like effect across your image.Anamorphic lenses are known to cause unique lens flares when pointed at lights. When using this filter, the flaring lights will also have an enhanced, more dreamy effect than just with the anamorphic lens. You have either seen or even tried using camera lens filters before as a beginner or professional photographer. For several reasons, creators use this little piece of glass, but the most common thing to do is to manage difficult illumination conditions while shooting. What’s left? I own a Tiffen 49mm Circular Polarizer that I rarely use. I probably should use it more, because CPLs are great for reducing unwanted reflections. To some extent, it’s theoretically possible to mimic Color Chrome FX Blue with a CPL filter, I think, although I’ve never tried. I also have a Hoya Intensifier (a.k.a. Didymium filter or Starscape filter) that I’ve used a few times. I have some 49mm color filters for B&W film photography, but obviously those don’t work well on the X100V (I tried). I also have a Hoya 80A filter, which actually does work on the X100V, but I pretty much never use it. The good news is that you have a few options and you can either spend a lot, or not much at all to get some pretty similar looking results to the old ‘Softs’, but what does a good alternative look like?