And that’s the finished Necron Warrior! This was pretty fast and easy to do, and I’m very happy with the result. Despite using bright colors, they come across appropriately menacing, which is the goal. The Characters Experienced painters will be able to get around this without issue, but novice painters might be caught out. It’s worth being aware of, and definitely something to experiment with. The Nihilakh dynasty are visually notable for combining teal and gold/bronze coloring on their armor. Most notably, Trazyn originally hails from this dynasty, and the studio paint job for Orikan the diviner also follows this color scheme.

We return to finish off the iconography! I somewhat violate the my typical behavior of only doing zenithal highlights on these as I want to put a lot of emphasis on the depth of the dragon’s face. For this I put the brightest points on stuff like the jaw, brows, and spines that should be be bold against the rest really to emphasize the key parts of the Salamanders logo. Coat D'Arms match the OLD citadel colours (pre-1992) so there might be some difference. Shining gold has the most noticeable difference, Finally, zenithally airbrush on Citadel Nurgling Green at about a 45 degree angle. I’m not super great at keeping the Zandri dust visible, but you should aim to keep some of it in the middle to get a good gradient.We will then start the highlights. Glaze on some Citadel Nurgling Green to set where the brighter parts of the model should be. Basecoat with Leadbelcher. Stipple/Splotch armor with Nuln Oil along the bottom half of the large plates, and along sides of pillars, then wash in the recesses. Now, there is one big difference that you’ll notice now the minis are close up: the edge highlights. Because the Citadel Layer paints are much heavier than the Two Thin Coats Highlight paints, the edge highlight on the Citadel model is much more pigmented. Use pure Scale 75 Peridot Alchemy as an edge highlight. For reflex highlights, mix in a little bit of Scale 75 Speed Metal or White Alchemy My characters tend to follow the same process, with some minor variations and more complicated schemes.

The other answer is that washes and highlight colours will do more then enough to differentiate the different materials, particularly with how most marine units are actually surprisingly limited in how many different textures are used. Most can be broken down into the following based in my scheme:

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I'm a self confessed 'noob' when it comes to painting having only been painting Warhammer for a little over a year now. I'm also a huge fan of Salamanders. So, in the course of starting a Salamanders army as a first foray into 40K, I opted to use Citadel's 'Warpstone Glow' (Formerly Snot Green) as my main coat. There are currently 60 paints in the range which have been designed to colour as much of a spread of the colour spectrum as possible. This is a bit of a irk. As mentioned above, dropper bottles are supposed to reduce waste paint – but dribbly bottles are more prone to depositing excess paint on your palette.