Nothing in Fisk is bold or edgy but it’s fun to spend time with its cast – particularly the Gruber & Gruber crew. Julia Zemiro is amusingly priggish; Sheargold is effortlessly blasé as a man who seems to understand he’s not very good at anything; and Aaron Chen is funny in an understated performance as a receptionist who prefers to be called “the Webmaster”. When I mentioned Fisk in my monthly streaming column, I proclaimed that if subsequent episodes were “half as good as the first” (which is all I had seen at the time; this review compasses episodes one to three), I would have no problem declaring that Flanagan’s character had “parachuted straight into the pantheon of Australia’s most memorable on-screen lawyers”. But unfortunately the initial episode sparkled in ways the second and third don’t – even reminding me of screwball farces such as His Girl Friday, in which a ping-pong effect is created in the dialogue by having actors speak unnaturally fast. Julia Zemiro as Roz, Marty Sheargold as Ray and Aaron Chen as George, AKA ‘the Webmaster’. Photograph: ABC

verifyErrors }}{{ message }}{{ /verifyErrors }}{{ And of course there is Flanagan, who ties the cast together: a consistently entertaining, anchoring presence with down-to-earth, don’t mess with me charisma – deflated and slightly desperate at times, but always affable. With the nights drawing in, we decided to pay an early evening visit one weekday night to take advantage of the restaurant’s set lunch and dinner menu, which runs between 12pm and 6pm, Tuesday to Saturday.