later that evening...... Alleyway door closes and SWMBO walks in..... "have a nice time dear ?......." "what the HELL is that smell ?" I've done my outriggers, wishbones etc over the winter and I know I have to spray something in to cover the areas I couldn't get at but I'm reluctant to get Waxoyl all over the place again as I found it covered a multitude of sins before and hadn't done it's job. After looking it would seem a combinaton of dinitrol 3125 followed by a protective coat of 4941 is the way to go. Any one here tried them?. I think you can do just as good a job as the pro's but it is horrible filthy and a lengthy process to get in all the seams, holes, doors bonnet boot etc and box sections. I have done a forum search and a number of people have said 'don't bother', while others have said 'use Dinitrol/Supertrol?'

The rubber seals are also protected from the harsh environment under the car to give peace of mind for this often neglected part of the car. I know a bit about this because I will be having the same done to my car later this year once the weather improves.

Used Car Pricing Search (2000 on)

Applying this stuff is a Summer job. Get the car clean underneath and apply during a dry spell with the car in the sun and when everything warm - including the fluid. Any covering that doesn't seal totally can just end up as a water trap. A lot of the treatments result in varying outcomes down to the care taken in applying them. Ease of application & preparation required are the main differentiators I suppose. Removing dripping clothes I entered house in “minimal Clothes” to resolve fuse prob, when Lights went on I saw the cat… Clutching hot waxoil injector thingy, part filled with waxoil and mixed with very very warm white spirit I squirted and soaked the chassis blasting away, and also practising holding my breath as it went misty in the workshop.

Dinitrol and Supertrol are far better >> I use Supertrol and it is far easier to apply..Buy in bulk and it is much cheaper.Also i have no idea where to start, im not expecting any thing bad under there but i want to do a good job. Saying that the old Waxoyl on the chassis has done a reasonable job, but would rather spend a bit extra on something decent I think. Long term, it forms a semi-solid skin of wax (demi-semi-solid in average Scottish temperatures) under which rust continues. Rustbuster is a registered trade mark of Rustbuster Ltd, registered in the UK Trademark number 2211446 Class 02 & 37.

I’ve decided to use POR15, based on lots of advice on here. I bought some last year before I had the gunge put on, but didn’t use it, seemed too much like hard work. So I’m writing this whilst having a cup of coffee, after having used it today. I followed the instructions to the letter, POR Degreaser first, followed by Etch primer, and finally the first thin coat of POR 15… looks good so far and the next coat goes on in a couple of hours. Remote areas/Scottish Highlands and non-UK Mainland areas may be subject to additional charges and a longer delivery time. This is determined by our couriers not Rustbuster.

So why am I sharing this, well just to advise caution if you think that a chassis is in good condition because it has been waxoyled, in my case this was definitely not so… all it served to do was mask the rust gremlins that are our very worst enemy. To answer your question - it's definitely worth doing and can mostly be applied with a brush. A simple spray can be useful for box members.