Adding more layers – I highlight the cabling with Moot Green to give it a brighter look that pops against the dark armor. I edge highlight the Bolter with Evil Sunz Scarlet and use Mephiston Red and Evil Sunz Scarlet to build up the cloth tabard. The eye lenses are Mephiston Red with a spot of Evil Sunz Scarlet. I also wash the leather parts with Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil. I'm currently using GW Citadel metallic paints but they're running low and I need to re-up. I'm thinking of switching to the newer metallic paints.

Brother Mortis is armed and ready for war! This mighty Ballistus Dreadnought joins the ranks of my Ultramarines 2nd Company to purge the enemies of mankind from afar.

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Retibutor has only one other competitor for a Base gold paint, and that's Balthasar Gold. I have to say, as a gold paint, it far outshines its predecessor. That's not to say Balthasar is bad, in fact I love that paint. If you are being fair though Balthasar Gold isn't really a gold paint, it's more accurately a brass or copper. Retributor Gold though is exactly what it says it is. It's a rich, deep, and fairly bright gold color. I am beyond excited that I finally have a real gold Base paint. Shade the shit out of the entire model with Drakenhoff Nightshade. Really go to town on this. GW reccos Nuln Oil for this, but I feel that destroys the really nice blue you get if you use Drakenhoff. The VMA range also have metallic colours - blue, red, etc. The blue is fantastic, but the red isn't as metallic as I'd hoped. You can mix in some silver paint to make them more metallic, and then use some inks or Tamiya clear to deepen the colour intensity, so it's still worth trying them out and seeing how they work for you. New paints are always exciting to me since I am primarily a painter. GW's last additions to their paint range, the Technical Paints, were a resounding success, and now they bring us Retributor Gold and Liberator Gold. Retributor is a Base paint while Liberator is a Layer paint. These are meant to coincide with the new Stormcast Eternals models, and having painted one, they work perfectly for them. Washes – time to do some fast shading. I use Carroburg Crimson on the red parts, Nuln Oil on the metal parts, Coelia Greenshade on the cabling, and Agrax Earthshade on the gold trim and bone parts. I also use Carroburg Crimson and Nuln oil to shade the upper right corners of the gemstone.

The armour is my standard and much loved (possibly by me alone) gold method, it’s simple and effective. Initially the miniature was sprayed with Citadel Retributor Armour, but the pot of Retributor Armour gives a nice smooth layer too, so either works. It’s then been washed with Citadel Agrax Earthshade before having Retrbutor Armour reapplied, leaving the Agrax Earthshade in the recesses. To highlight I used Citadel Liberator Gold on all the areas I think would be catching the light the most, then I did one more extreme highlight of Liberator Gold mixed with Vallejo Model Air Chrome. Vallejo Model Colour Carmine Red Base. Just do a single thin layer. This is here just to give your later reds something to grab onto. Stormhost Silver is nearly identical to Runefang Steel in color. It is very slightly brighter, but you will not notice it if you mix it into your army. It also is thinner and covers much better than Runefang. This is the first Warhammer 40,000 vehicle I’ve painted in the 21st Century! It began with a base of Leadbelcher Spray , followed by two layers of Dark Angels Green on the armour plates, I then edge-highlighted it with Waaagh! Flesh . I used Basilicanum Grey and Ratling Grime on the metals, with Iron Hands Steel as a highlight. For the classic red weaponry, I used Flesh Tearers Red and Baal Red Contrast, highlighted with Wild Rider Red . Retributor Gold shaded with Agrax Earthshade worked for the gold elements, and I had Baneblade Brown with Seraphim Sepia applied to the scrollwork and purity seals.The copper quad is "decayed metal", "victorian brass", "old copper" and "pure copper". I find these less useful, as I usually want a brass rather than a copper effect (think polished brass instruments, or ornaments); these are definitely biased more towards a red-hued copper of different ages. If you want a copper range though, they are great.

I was wondering how close in color the new ones are the the "old" ones I have. Also what is the main difference in the type of paint it is. Thanks.

These are the armies that I would recommend painting with Liberator Gold, as they all have a lot of metallic and machinery elements that would benefit from the shine and metallic look of this paint. Liberator Gold Colour Schemes & Combinations Red: Mephiston Red is a deep, rich red that can be used as an analogous color to Liberator Gold. This color combo creates a sense of warmth and energy, making it perfect for highlighting the details of the metallic elements of your miniatures. We’re not sure if you noticed, but last week Warhammer quietly launched a new product. Entitled Warhammer 40,000: Leviathan, it pits two factions – called ‘the Space Marines’ and ‘the Tyranids’ – against one another in a struggle for the fate of the galaxy. It sounds pretty exciting if you ask us! I decided to create my interpretation of Aethon Shaan’s 1st Company Raven Guard. I started with the Captain himself, using a head swap from the Forge World upgrade set , which significantly changes the dynamic of the miniature. Imperial Guard: The Imperial Guard, also known as the Astra Militarum, is the primary infantry force of the Imperium. They are known for their large numbers and heavy machinery, including tanks and artillery. Liberator Gold is a great choice for highlighting the armor and weapons of the Imperial Guard, as it gives them a gleaming, metallic look that perfectly fits the image of a well-equipped and well-trained military force.

Lord of the Night by Simon Spurrier. A long lost Night Lord from the heresy goes up against an entire planet alone. Until ADB’s Night Lords trilogy this was the go-to for source material about the 8th legion. Edge highlighting – The metal and gold parts get an edge highlight of Ironbreaker, and I use the same color for the rivets. For the armor, I do an edge highlight with The Fang and the another smaller edge highlight with Snow Shadow on the corners and top edges. I edge the leather parts with Mournfang Brown. I do a standard gemstone pattern on the gemstone on his shoulder pad.Coat with Nuln Oil – Most of the infantry I paint follows a basecoat > shade > coat > highlight process, and that’s true here. Cover your model in Nuln Oil, and hit the lower areas and edges with a second coat of Nuln Oil. Gold Trim – I do my gold Trim with Retributor Armour. I used to do it with Balthasar Gold, then a few layers of Auric Armour but that took forever and came out too yellow. This new method is faster and looks better. Basically I do Retributor then hit it with a couple coats of Agrax Earthshade.