seeding or turfing. However, products containing fluroxypyr (eg. Weedol Lawn Weedkiller) are claimed On vacant soil, where there are no herbaceous perennials, bulbs or crops, you can use SBM Job Done Path Weedkiller (ready to use only) orWeedol Pathclear products containing glyphosate/diflufenicanto inhibit new shoots

If vandalism is suspected, photographs of the damage can be useful. These may be needed for evidence if the matter is taken further. Weedkiller residues are difficult to test for in soil or plant material ( note: the RHS does not offer this service) but a report from a consultant is worth considering First, consider whether this can be done using non-chemical means such as digging out but where thismethodisnot feasible, chemical controls may need to be used. Do not use residual path and patio weedkillers on paths or drives close to beds or lawns or tree root runs as this can leach STEP 4: Place the pots in a greenhouse or warm windowsill in winter, or for beans outdoors in summer. Keep the compost damp but ensure the drainage water from pots containing the suspect growing media cannot contaminate the control pots.

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On loose or light soils, remove all bulbs with a hand fork or trowel. This is a laborious task and will only be effective if done thoroughly, perhaps even resorting to sieving the soil to ensure all small bulbs and bulbils are removed. As its rhizomes are close to the surface of the soil, it is possible to reduce infestations of ground elder by removing it carefully with a garden fork. However, eradicating it completely needs vigilance as the smallest portion of root left in the soil will result in a new plant growing. Cultural control Weedkillers for gardeners (Adobe Acrobat pdf document outlining weedkillers available to gardeners; see section 3, 4 and 5) Links Residual weedkillers (used in combination with the systemic weedkiller glyphosate) can be soil-acting The RHS believes that avoiding pests, diseases and weeds by good practice in cultivation methods, cultivar selection, garden hygiene and encouraging or introducing natural enemies, should be the first line of control. If chemical controls are used, they should be used only in a minimal and highly targeted manner. Culturalcontrol

Lift cultivated plants and carefully remove and destroy any pieces of ground elder rhizome from around their roots. On vacant soil, where there are no herbaceous perennials, bulbs or crops, you can use SBM Job Done Path Weedkiller (ready to use only) and Weedol Pathclear products containing glyphosate/diflufenican to inhibit new shoots If you suspect a problem with a particular batch of peat-free or peat-reduced compost or manureit is possible to do a simple test for weedkiller residues. This involves germinating plants that are sensitive to herbicide such as tomatoes or beans. How to do thetest Do not add the first lawn clippings after application to the compost heap. The first clippings from

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narrow-leaved plants (grasses) unharmed at the normal dilution rate. Because of this, they are used on Putting infested beds down to grass does not prevent the growth of the bulbs, but small infestations may be almost eliminated by replacing the topsoil to at least a spade's depth.

Weedkillers for gardeners (Adobe Acrobat pdf document outlining weedkillers available to gardeners; see sections 1b, 4 and 5). Links Caution: do not dispose of bulbs or bulbils by adding them to the garden compost heap. Weedkiller control Among other bulbs Attempting to dig out the plants often assists their spread as, unless great care is taken, this operation will distribute the tubercles (small tubers). Dig out tubers and young plants before flowering but this may need to be repeated over several seasons In areas where it is not so easy to fork out by hand, a heavy mulch of leaf litter will encourage the weed to root into the loose layer from which it can be more easily removed. WeedkillercontrolEnchanter’s nightshade usually favours loose soils rich in leaf litter, conditions in which it can be forked out with little difficulty, although it may be hard to remove all traces of the weed at a single attempt.In certain situations where soil and light levelssuit this weed, control may only be achieved by a campaign of several years of removing as much root as possible while dealing promptlywith any regrowth. First, consider whether this can be done using non-chemical means such as digging out or other methods like burning or the application of hot water. Where these methods are not feasible, chemical controls may need to be used.