On review, we found that our chain remained rust-free after our 'garden hose test' that we used to replicate wet weather. A ride in the rain followed and the chain again showed no signs of rust or stiff links. We also liked that, unlike some wet lubes, Green Oil didn't attract too much dirt and grime that can really wear the drivetrain. In all conditions, the SMOOVE keeps the drivetrain well… Smooth and it hasn’t washed off mid-ride whenever the conditions took a turn. If that sounds like too much hassle, a wet lube will help prevent corrosion between rides and provide lubrication in a wide range of conditions. PRSboy: Squirt seems to be the holy grail of lubes, as long as you don't mind reapplying after a wet ride. I've been most impressed. Best practice for this type of lube is to apply sparingly to each link in the chain and wipe off any excess before riding.

Graphenlube does appear to reduce friction, and it's certainly pretty tenacious in real-world conditions. It's very expensive, but so are a lot of other bike-related things. If you're the kind of person who looks to buy a bit of extra performance, then here's another thing you can spend your hard-earned on. For the sort of savings you can expect I wouldn't say it was particularly good value, but you might have snaffled all the low-hanging fruit already, or you might not care. And it probably is the best lube I've tried.” You can also use an ultrasonic cleaner do to this, but using a resealable container is cheaper. When the cleaning solution is running clear with no discolouration or contaminants you know your chain is clean. Should I spend more on chain lube? John has been writing about bikes and cycling for over 30 years since discovering that people were mug enough to pay him for it rather than expecting him to do an honest day's work.

Maintain

Unless your bike ride is planned to take place underwater, we’d recommend steering well clear of using grease on your chain. Do aerosol lubes work?

I'm now up to 150 miles on the original application, including rides in all weather and a deliberate 20-second soaking of the chain with a garden hose to see if I could shift it. That was 50 miles ago, and the chain is still smooth and quiet. The reason I stopped doing that was that the wax treatment only lasted a week or two unless topped up with some other wax lubricant (e.g. Smoove), so in the end I thought it was less trouble to just go with the pre-made lubricant.Less mess than both wet and dry lubes, easy to clean off and literally silent drivetrain for 300-500 miles on one application. For non-racers, for whom peak speed and efficiency isn’t the ultimate goal, reducing drivetrain wear – and therefore extending the life of your components – can potentially save you a fair amount of money. Whether you’re a racer looking for a performance edge or a commuter who simply wants a fuss-free solution, we’ll lay out all the chain lube options and explain the positives and negatives of every approach. Efficiency and drivetrain wear Water from a wet ride will carry contaminants into your chain links and there they will stay, wearing your chain from the inside unless they are removed and contamination is reset. You should therefore try to avoid just re-lubricating your chain after a wet ride if you can help it. Whichever lube you prefer to use, for the best results Trimnell suggests that you leave the lube on the chain overnight before riding for maximum benefit.

Regular, correct application of lube is an important process to ensure the smooth and efficient running of your bike. We would always advise keeping your bike as clean as possible, and topping up the chain lube after a wet ride will at least prevent corrosion.If you are reading this guide you may well know this already. But we will include it anyway. WD40 isn't a chain lubricant and there are far more effective options out there. WD40 (the brand) also makes a range of bike-specific chain lubricants now that are better suited to the job, so save the WD40 (the product) for un-seizing or protecting metal parts. How can I clean my chain properly?

I suppose you really have to try it to appreciated it. I am going to try the paraffin wax/slow cooker way next and see how I get on as cost wise that is easily the best option. BehindTheBikesheds replied to StraelGuy: Only a thousand miles, christ what are you riding through dust, dirt, mud, rain with road salt for good measure and not wiping post ride or any cleaning at all? When a chain is dirty, contamination is present in each chain link in the form of metal particles, dirt or sand etc. These contaminants are suspended within a chain lubricant, specifically the carrier the lubricant is held in, and essentially form a grinding paste which will just wear your chain out from the inside. Even the best road bike groupsets will be ruined in just a few thousand miles if chain wear is terminal.Curiously, since first receiving UFO Drip, the application procedure has changed. Initially CeramicSpeed recommended one drip on each roller, left to dry for at least eight hours but ideally overnight. It was easily done, and the matt grey lube stands out so you can see what you're doing. New method