Sand and cement render, on the other hand, is a traditional method consisting of sand, cement, and water. It is a cost-effective option often used for repairing existing render or achieving a classic finish. The standard mix for wet dash render is 2-3 parts sand, 1 part cement, and 1 part small gravel mix. These are all mixed together to make the rendering mix. If you are trying to use the wet dash render to patch repair some older wet dash, you may need to use a slightly different mix so that it matches the original render. This could include using lime or even mixing some hair into the mix. K render and sand and cement render are two distinct exterior wall finishing techniques used in construction. K Render The best mix ratio for sand and cement rendering is 1:1:6 one part cement, one part lime and six parts Sand. Ideally your sand ratio should be 3:3 three parts silver sand and three parts grit sand. What tools do I need for sand and cement rendering?

If you live in a listed building or your walls were originally built in lime mortar, you will be expected to complete any rendering in lime. Once it is hard enough to push a rendering float onto the surface without render bulging out around the float, you can begin to float the surface up. The guidelines given in this render tutorial are exactly that – guidelines! It does not matter if you leave the wall a week or even a month, between cleaning it down and rendering it. Just make sure that the wall is slightly damp when you start and that you have brushed it over to remove any new dust that may have accumulated.

The great thing about wet dash render is that it can hide any imperfections or old damage in the walls of your home. It can also easily be applied to walls that are curved. The render will brighten your home and make it look brand new again. If you want a low-maintenance option Start your sander before placing it on the wall, and position it perpendicularly. Make sure you are using both hands to control the sander with a firm grip.

Brushes and Brooms: These are useful for cleaning the wall surface before rendering and for removing excess render or creating a textured finish.

Scratching comb used for keying first coat for better bond to second coat Step 8 – Test Dryness of First Coat If your proposed rendering will cover more than 25% of the wall you may have to upgrade the wall to comply with current insulation requirements if this is possible. In a cavity wall for example, this may mean you need to insert cavity insulation. Coverage: Approximately 3 meters square per litre depending on porosity and how rough the substrate. Screed: A screed is a straight edge tool, often made of metal or aluminum, used to level the render and create a flat surface. It helps ensure that the render is applied evenly across the wall.

Hawk: A hawk is a flat, square board with a handle underneath. It is used to hold and carry the wet render material while you work on the wall. Render Grip Coat should be applied using a short pile roller or brush to give an even coating on rough surfaces you may have to use a longer pile roller sleeve Applying the Render The render is applied onto the wall using a trowel or a rendering machine. Application should start from the wall’s bottom and progress upwards. After the initial layer, it is advisable to let it set for a few hours before applying a second coat. Render is a mixture of sand, cement and sometimes lime that is applied to the external walls of a house to weatherproof them, cover the existing materials or change their appearance. Single Coat Render (Monocouche): As you may guess from the name, this is a render that’s applied in a single coat and can be trowelled or sprayed on to the wall. In most cases they are based on a standard cement render and come pre-mixed so all you do is add water. They are very low maintenance so generally don’t need repair and can also come coloured so no need for paintingFollow recommended ratios to achieve the correct consistency when mixing sand and cement. Avoid excessively dry or wet mixes. Float: A float is a flat, rectangular tool with a handle used to create a smooth finish on the render. There are different types of floats, including wooden floats and plastic floats. Wet dash rendering, also known as roughcast rendering, is a render type that has been used for hundreds of years. It is called roughcast because, rather than trying to create a smooth finish, with wet dash render small pieces of gravel are mixed in with the render to provide a rough finish. It has been a popular choice in rural areas of the UK for hundreds of years (less so in southeast England) because it provides a finish that can protect the building from the elements very well. Begin by grinding down any large protrusion (if any) to ensure that your sander works on a roughly flat surface. If it is allowed to freeze it will expand and on thawing it will leave a void which will again fill with water when it rains. This will also freeze and so the process goes on. See our project on Freeze-Thaw action for more information.

Choosing between K render and sand and cement render depends on factors such as wall type, intended use, and desired appearance. Seeking professional guidance is essential when making this decision. How to Paint Sand and Cement Render

As we have mentioned, rendering is very much the same as plastering and due to this requires practice beforehand to get the hang of it so take the time to practice using a piece of platerboard fixed to a garage or shed wall first. It became very popular during the 19th-century arts and crafts movement and was incorporated into many of the new style housing estates that sprung up over that period. It fell out of favour during the 20th century and pebbledash, in particular, started to gain a less-than-stellar reputation. It was used on a lot of the new homes that suddenly needed to be built and was chosen because there was a skills shortage at the time so other, more complicated forms, of finishing homes were harder to find. Once the battens have been removed and any other voids or imperfections are filled to be level with the rest of the wall, the wall should be left for another hour or so to start the drying out process. After sponging over has been completed it should then be left for at least 24 hours or so to fully dry out.