The Pros feature the usual flat last and so they're great if you're looking for a performance shoe that isn't down-turned. On the whole they fit very similarly to the classic Anasazis, with the main differences being the tight heel and the overall stiffness of the forefoot due to the addition of toe rubber. Over the months I've being using the Pros, whilst they've given a bit to become more comfortable, there has been no significant stretching, which is not surprising due to the synthetic uppers and all that toe rubber. Materials When I first got the shoes I took them off maybe twice a session but after a little while, I was happy spending multiple hours in these shoes. I probably could have gone a half size down if I really wanted to go for that performance fit.

The Stealth C4 rubber brings a good balance between friction and durability that makes the shoe feel at home at the crag and in the gym. Five Ten also makes the NIAD Lace in a women’s version, which our female editors are looking forward to testing as well. Photo credit: REI. Five Ten NIAD Lace: A Granite Gobbler The Pinks have handled most styles of climbing I have thrown at them. From slabs to vertical and slightly steeper walls, they feel great. Be warned though, that the Pinks will reach their limit on very steep sport, bouldering, or modern competition routes.

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when I found out Five Ten were working on a next-generation upgrade for these iconic shoes, the Nose In A Day range, I was slightly apprehensive. The task of updating and more importantly, improving, a shoe as iconic as the Anasazi VCS is no easy task. Heading out the door? Read this article on the new Outside+ app available now on iOS devices for members! That said, despite the fact that the Anasazi is now a relatively old shoe, you still see it everywhere. Whenever I see a photo of Ned Feehally he always seems to be wearing them; Shauna Coxsey often wears the extremely popular women's version in competition;, and on a recent trip to Leonidio I often saw a pair at the crag. The Anasazi Pro therefore has a lot to live up to! So what's changed and how would I get on with it compared to the classic shoe? What's new? Five Ten says the VCS is designed for wider feet than the lace model, which I would agree with. My feet are fairly narrow so the shoes still fit but there is a noticeably long bit of Velcro which overhangs when they’re done up. This has been more of a slight annoyance than anything else though. I certainly found that my foot shape was more suited to the Pinks or Blancos than their Velcro counterpart.

After a few sessions, the VCS softens up, although they still retain good edging ability long after the break-in period. The full-length midsole has a large part to play in this, as does the new heel rand, both of which contribute to the precision and stability of the VCS toe box. Because the VCS is designed to be a performance all-rounder, don’t expect this shoe to have the unparalleled edging ability of the NIAD Lace or other stiff climbing shoes that are purpose-built for technical face climbing or all-day use Smearing

We take to the wall with one Five Ten’s time-tested classics

The uppers are made from lined microfibre, which certainly gives the NIAD a comfortable feel. Five Ten believe the use of this material helps the shoe to 'maintain a consistent fit,' whereas in reality the shoe's shape changes considerably over time. That's not to say this is a bad thing – the Anasazi always changed over time, and as previously mentioned, what this means is that the shoe's purpose changes too: from an edging machine to a sensitive smearer. Ah yes, Five Ten’s legendary Stealth C4™. Arguably considered one of the best climbing rubbers out there, and unquestionably 5.10’s most versatile rubber. The C4 rubber offers an unbeatable grip on almost every climbable surface. It is used throughout the Anasazi lineup as well as a bunch of other Five Ten climbing and approach shoes. The strategically placed velcro straps are easy to overlook but are an essential contributor to the comfort, and performance, of the shoe. Most double-strapped velcro shoes opt for a lower first strap, often placed around the ball of your foot.