Oils: These tend to be more penetrative but evaporate quite rapidly, meaning that the application usually has to be renewed yearly. Greases: These use oil as the carrier. Dinitrol is a grease type. Dinitrol is expensive and by the time you have bought or hired a gun and compressor and quite a few canisters of Dinitrol, you may be approaching the cost of a proper Before 'n' After treatment. It sat there and looked at me the way only a cat can... it sniffed (unapprovingly) the dripped waxoil, and I said… I’ve decided to use POR15, based on lots of advice on here. I bought some last year before I had the gunge put on, but didn’t use it, seemed too much like hard work. So I’m writing this whilst having a cup of coffee, after having used it today. I followed the instructions to the letter, POR Degreaser first, followed by Etch primer, and finally the first thin coat of POR 15… looks good so far and the next coat goes on in a couple of hours.

If you really want to protect and get Waxoyl to do what it's supposed to do, then (as I do with all of my cars) pay for a professional steam clean of the underside and professional Underbody Seal with a pressurised delivery system. Then Waxoyl on top of that yourself with a tin of Waxoyl and a manual hand sprayer every year. During summer is best, then it's protected for winter. Waxoyl is an oil and water mix and therefore it will never cure. So hot days it will continue to drip out of any of the holes it was applied to on your vehicle. It will also give out odour from the oil. Grabbing some white spirit to further thin the waxoil I entered the kitchen and unscrewed the waxoil lid.Like anything else, you have to prepare properly and apply it properly. It's no good just slapping it on crusty surface rust as that'll just fall off. Do some prep work first, take the "clumps" off and cover the rust hiding underneath those big clumps. There are also different kinds of treatments. Plain old Waxoyl is water resistant but will wash off over the space of 4-6 months, sooner if you make a habit of driving through a lot of standing water. There's also Underbody Seal with Waxoyl added. Our UK weather provides the ideal weather for rust on your vehicle nowadays. With our ever-increasing harsh winters bringing rain and snow it is a perfect time for your vehicle to start getting rust on it. We also find our roads being treated with more and more salt to combat these bad road conditions too. Therefore, you need to think about your rust prevention for your vehicle Here are a few pros and cons of these treatments for your vehicle and why rust prevention is very important to your vehicle. What is the difference between Waxoyl and Dinitrol? To help you achieve this, we offer a full suite of rust treatment products, including: Car rust remover

Dinitrol also leaves a skin when applied onto your vehicle and stays soft underneath it allowing it to self-heal in temperatures that it is subjected to. This means that it will self-heal over small stone chips and scratches too. It most certainly works, I've used it for years. Yes, it kills existing rust. Yes, it stops new rust forming. It's particularly good for inside doors and box sections. This is easy to do and costs next to nothing. The oil doesn't solidify so its self repairing, and highly penetrative. Dinitrol will get into the nooks and crevices of the vehicles bodywork to give good rust prevention. It also has a rust inhibitor to counteract any surface that the rust encounters giving you a good rust prevention.

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I've got away with it...."all done"...I've got away with it...."think I'll have a beer"...I've got away with it....I've got away with it...."Would you like a glass of wine ?"....I've got away with it....yippee....I've got away with it....and Rust prevention is a rewarding job and one that everyone should think about that owns a vehicle, especially those that are an enthusiast about their classic car. It is part of ongoing maintenance for your vehicle and an important step in classic car restoration. I also had the real benefit that SWMBO was out so I had since 3.00pm been shoving the 2 gallon cans into the sink with near boiling water. I should have known things were going to go “slightly wrong” when I started. Dinitrol is far easier to apply than Waxoyl as it has been shown that Waxoyl can be affected by the changing weather.

In a report that was carried out it showed that Waxoyl doesn’t seem to penetrate any significant amounts of rust whereas Dinitrol did fill in those gaps. Diesel is slightly more available and has a higher molecular weight than kerosene so its slightly more protective in its own right, but it smells unpleasant and stings the eyes, so I prefer kerosene. White spirit would evaporate if one wanted to build up multiple sprayings, as would water. For a few years now I have been using a secret additive which I add at 2% to the waxoyl to make it impact resistant. I have found that not only does this make the waxoyl abrasion resistant with no trade off in its capability to kill rust, I have found that it also prevents the waxoyl from oxidizing and disappearing over time. We will be happy to organise an exchange for the correct goods at no extra charge to yourself, please get in touch to organise this. Faulty ItemsI have a custom built pressure washer of enormous power which can blast off the rust. See this clip: