Cover and cook gently for 6 minutes, then drain, reserving the water. Now heat the oil in a pan and fry the onion until softened. Then stir in the turmeric, coriander, cumin seeds, ginger and garlic, followed by the lentils, and stir until everything is thoroughly combined before pouring in the reserved vegetable water. Now bring to the boil, cover and cook gently for 40 minutes, or until the lentils are just tender. Meanwhile heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a frying-pan and cook the onion and pepper together in it until they are softened – about 8-10 minutes. Then remove them to a plate, add the rest of the oil to the pan and cook the aubergine, which will also take about 10 minutes to soften. After that add the garlic, cook that for a minute then return the onion and pepper to the pan. Now mix the wine and tomato purée together with the cinnamon and parsley in a jug, then pour this into the vegetable mixture. Delia Smith’s veg sausage rolls: cheddar, breadcrumbs and cream. Thumbnails by Felicity. The ‘meat’ Now spread the whole lot evenly into the prepared tin over the stuffing mixture, and bake on the top shelf of the oven for 20-25 minutes or until it feels springy and firm in the centre. Meanwhile cook the parsnips in a steamer for 10-15 minutes until they're soft, then cream them together with the butter, double cream and a seasoning of nutmeg, salt and pepper (this can be done by hand or in a food processor). When they're ready, keep them warm while you lay a sheet of greaseproof paper (slightly longer than the roulade) on a work surface and sprinkle the hazelnuts all over it. If you are cooking a double quantity, measure out half of them into a bowl and when they have got quite cold, cover the bowl with clingfilm and store in the fridge.) Next prepare the aubergines: place the cubes in a colander, sprinkle them with a little salt, then cover with a plate weighted down with a saucer topped with some scale-weights. Leave them to drain for 20 minutes, then squeeze them dry in a clean tea-cloth.

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Begin by preparing the aubergines: to do this cut them into ½ inch (1 cm) dice leaving the skins on.The same goes for the chestnut puree in Rose Elliot’s version from her Vegetarian Christmas book: though the chestnuts feel festive, the texture is similarly mushy and the flavour similarly sweet. It’s a clever idea, especially because chestnut puree is now fairly easy to come by in large supermarkets, but for me it needs more than onion, garlic and seasoning to compete with sausage meat. Most of the recipes I try include an umami-rich element in homage to the original meat filling. Cheese will do that job perfectly, of course, as well as adding fat, so if you use it, fold in grated hard cheese of your choice to taste (about 50g should do, but it will vary depending on strength; you’ll need less mature cheddar than red leicester, for example). Soy sauce is a popular vegan alternative, and makes an appearance in both Elliot’s and Young’s versions, with the latter also adding miso paste for an extra hit of savoury flavour; Bosh, meanwhile, use nutritional yeast, which always reminds me, not unpleasantly, of Quavers. All of these are excellent choices, but I like to keep things simple with a spoonful of Marmite, which is something I always have in the house anyway. If you don’t care for it, choose one of the above instead. The seasoning While they're cooking, heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a large solid frying pan and fry the onions until they're soft and tinged brown at the edges (about 5 minutes), then add the chopped pepper and soften and brown that too for about another 4 minutes. Next add the garlic, cook for 1 minute more, then transfer the whole lot to a plate. Next transfer the aubergines to a clean tea cloth to squeeze them dry, then add a further 2 tablespoons of oil to the frying pan, turn the heat up to high and toss the aubergines in it so they get evenly cooked. When they're starting to brown a little, add the drained tomatoes and the onion and pepper mixture to the pan. Caldesi also makes a tomato sauce along with her bechamel, while Hazan, Stewart and Smith use bechamel only, and the Silver Spoon goes for a mixture of ricotta and tomato puree. Blanch the beans, potatoes, carrots and cauliflower by placing them in a pan containing 13/4 pints (1 litre) of boiling, salted water.

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When the roulade is cooked, turn it out on to the hazelnuts and carefully peel off the base paper. Spread the creamed parsnip evenly all over the sage and onion stuffing. Then roll up the roulade along the longest side, using the greaseproof paper underneath to help you pull it into a round (it's not difficult, it behaves very well). While we're on the subject of texture, baked pasta dishes such as lasagne are apparently not intended to be served al dente – they should tend more towards the "custardy", which is certainly not an adjective I've ever heard applied to any other kind. This is perhaps why Hazan and Stewart insist on the use of fresh pasta. Mix the ricotta with the toasted pine nuts and about three-quarters of the pecorino. Season to taste.

Method

Roll the filling up in the pastry like a bug in a rug, as Young recommends, rather than folding over in the more traditional but also more fiddly fashion, then brush with milk or egg, sprinkle with a few seeds to make it party ready, and you’ll have a sausage roll that everyone but the dog will enjoy. Perfect vegetarian sausage rolls Weigh this down with a heavy object (like scale weights) and after 30 minutes quite a bit of water will have been drawn out. Dry them really thoroughly in a clean cloth and then they're ready to cook. Heat the oil in a frying pan large enough to hold the courgettes in one layer (otherwise do them in two batches), add the crushed garlic and sauté the courgette slices to a nice golden colour on each side. Next arrange layers of courgettes, cheese slices and sliced tomatoes in a heatproof gratin dish so that they overlap each other slightly like slates on a roof. You can watch how to skin tomatoes in our Cookery School Video. Next add the blanched vegetables to the lentil mixture along with the yoghurt, tomato puree and just ½ teaspoon of cayenne pepper. Stir well, and try to push all the vegetables below the surface of the liquid. Now bring to simmering point, cover and cook for a further 20 minutes, or until everything is tender. Taste and add a further ¼ teaspoon of cayenne, if you prefer a hotter flavour, and season with salt. Start off by preparing the courgettes and aubergine an hour ahead of time: chop them into 1½ inch (4 cm) chunks, leaving the skins on, and layer them in a colander with a sprinkling of salt between each layer. If you have the time, salt, drain and dry the sliced courgettes: layer them in a colander, sprinkling each layer with salt, and place a suitably sized plate on top.