No, oxygen free pure copper wire will not deliver any noticeable improvements in sound or power. It’s not worth spending more money on it. Hopefully, you now feel confident and informed enough to make a choice based on the facts instead of the fiction. Still not entirely sure if that new amp or speaker will work well for you? Simply put your question in a comment below! See also

First, the sensitivity. The sensitivity of a speaker is expressed in dBs, or decibels. Usually, manufacturers specify the amount of dBs that a speaker can produce with a single Watt of power at a 1-metre distance. In most cases, the number will lie somewhere between 84 and 92 dB with the rule of thumb being: the more sensitive a speaker is, the less power it needs to put out louder volume. Does that mean that smaller speakers are easier to power? No, because these are often less sensitive than larger units because they are forced to sacrifice a large portion of the sensitivity to reproduce a decent amount of low-end. To shape bass frequencies, a speaker will need to be larger so it doesn’t have to sacrifice as much to remain sensitive. So sensitive speakers certainly aren’t less good than more insensitive ones, as a matter of fact, they’re better! Keep in mind that instead of sensitivity, manufacturers sometimes use the term ‘efficiency’. Different word, same principle. Maximum sound pressure level (SPL)The current flows through two conductor sides (positive & negative) for a total of: 2*4m*0.0147Ω/m = 8m*0.0147Ω/m = 0.1176Ω total resistance for 4m of 19/29 stranded wire. Both woofers and replacement midrange drivers remain some of our best-selling items as music lovers get the very most from their speaker cabinets. The drivers can also be used in car sound systems to boost your listening experience when on the move, with multiple sizes to suit the spacial capacity of most modern four-wheel vehicles. Those in need of a replacement woofer should consider calling our customer service team, if in need of advice.

All speaker wire sold is stranded, meaning it’s made up of a bundle of 16-60 or more very fine copper conductors. Solid wire, however, has only one conductor. In terms of audio, it’s fine and the sound quality is the same. True, but people often make a mistake when they compare speakers to lamps and say that a 100W bulb burns brighter than a 10W bulb. While they’re absolutely right, the comparison is a little more complex and requires some nuance. The specified power output of a speaker isn’t the sole determining factor when it comes to how loud it’ll go. You can’t really compare a 5,000W speaker to a 100W one, simply because the difference is too extreme and doesn’t take other aspects into consideration. Granted, 5,000 Watts will lead to more volume than 100 Watts but if the numbers aren’t as far apart, say, 1,200W versus 1,000W, it might well be that the latter is louder because it comes with superior specifications in other regards. This can’t be overlooked when you’re weighing up the pros and cons of the speakers on your shortlist. Power loss at 300W RMS: P = ISony’s HT-A9 Wireless Home Theatre System encourages users to position its speakers arbitrarily, promising an even, uniform and immersive soundfield regardless of the symmetry of your set-up. Power, current, voltage, are critical for calculating wire size we need for any type of electrical load – including the speaker Ohms load. This is one reason why power companies can use high-voltage power lines to distribute thousands of Watts using smaller wire gauge while reducing wire cost power losses over long distances.

You may have heard of the skin effect in some conductors which becomes more of an issue at higher frequencies but that’s well above the 20 to 20kHz audio range so it’s not something to worry about. Stranded speaker wire design Copper-clad aluminum (CCA) wire has, in the last few years, become more and more common as the price of copper has gone up. It’s one of those “little things” you might not know when buying that companies aren’t telling you. For surround sound and center channel home theater speakers, you shouldn’t spend a lot because their power needs are usually fairly low.

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Most speaker wire sold today is made up of two conductors attached as a pair with one marked as the positive; they’re essentially the same as stranded power cable paired together. The gauges available range from about 20 gauge to 10 gauge, with 18 gauge being one the most popular. Tweeters deal with the high-end frequencies above 2000 Hertz (Hz) in your music or more specifically the treble in your mix and will accentuate instruments such as strings, piano or upper octave keyboard notes. Midrange frequencies are anything between 200Hz and 2000Hz and will bring forth sounds such as guitars or tom drums and your bass is anything below 200Hz which of course works the bottom end of the range. Speakers that have multiple drivers built within are called full-range speakers and use multiple drivers to achieve a wider spectrum of audio output. Replacement woofers

Drivers are essential to a speaker, it is through the driver that any sound can effectively reach your ears, thus sometimes customers do not need a brand new speaker but merely only need a set of replacement woofers. This is where our range of replacement midrange speakers/drivers come in handy for those looking to revitalise or upgrade their existing speaker system. There is not a driver currently in existence which can comfortably handle a full range of frequencies all alone which is why woofers, midrange drivers and tweeters all have an important job to do. Our selection of Speaker Drivers here are all the classic conical type, although other types such as speaker tweeters and horns are also available in our store. The replacement woofers are built to accentuate the low end of your music, providing a way to hear bass frequencies clearer. You'll also find a selection of replacement midrange speakers (most known as "drivers") designed for the augmentation and customisation of existing PA speakers or similar. Buy Speaker Drivers Then there’s the PMPO, the peak maximum power output. While it sounds cool, it’s more of an irrelevant theoretical aspect than anything else. This indicates the amount of power a speaker is able to handle for a few milliseconds before it breaks beyond repair. It’s not the most useful of specifications because you don’t exactly want to try this. About the second question: I agree that the line with ‘too much’ isn’t clear. What we actually mean is that it’s better to go with an amp that can deliver more continuous power than the speaker requires. But there is a limit to this. A speaker usually has a maximum power capacity specified, which is the absolute maximum amount of power a speaker can handle in short bursts.Longer speaker runs for car & home stereo speakers or short runs under 20 ft for 75-100W. Moderate power subwoofers (under 225W) with short lengths.