Once you have the pins in the centre of the sides, continue to evenly shape the fabric, then you can add the pins in the corners. In the pictures I am using knit pro T-pins which are super sharp (so please take care!), robust and easy to use, however any rust-proof dressmakers pins should work too. In our workshop, we make them from lime and balsa wood. Lime will last longer but Balsa is sometimes the preferred alternative because of its self-healing properties. However, heavy use over time will mean its shelf life is shorter than that of its lime version. Simple Dolly Head If you’ve read any of my posts on gauge, you will know that I am a fan of always making a swatch for any crochet item which needs to fit. For really good results, use your own head! Put a thin towel over your head, and wear the slightly-damp hat over that for a few minutes. Remove it carefully, so it holds its shape, and leave it to dry. It might feel strange, but it'll help you get a hat that fits like a glove. Summary

yarn, or twist it out of shape, you’ve only messed up your swatch and not the sweater you’ve spent months When pinning out finished garments (rather than flat pattern pieces), you may just want to focus on specific areas which may need more shaping. We’ll be answering more of your questions soon, in the meantime if you’re looking for inspiration and millinery projects why not head over to HATalk? With this code GMB20 claim 20% off a new HATalk Subscription. A ribbon board is a must-have piece of equipment for the millinery workroom. It is primarily used for shaping Petersham ribbon or bias fabric so that it will fit round the edge of a brim without wrinkling. This allows you to make perfect bindings for your hats every time! In this blog post you will learn how to use a milliner’s ribbon board.Once you have allowed the fabric to fully soak, carefully squeeze out the excess water and lay it flat on a towel. Gently roll up the fabric in the towel and give it a soft press to take most of the water out.

Now, place the hat upside down inside the brim. (as pictured below). Importantly, the brim must be on a stand or have its own brim legs, to elevate your work off the surface. Now tie a cotton sheet over it using the string groove. Pull it nice and tight, spray lightly with water and iron (not too hot). Leave it to dry and remove. The same goes if you are working with any other delicate fibre. Keep the heat / steam at a safe distance.

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The rust-proof part is important, as the pins will be exposed to moisture during the drying process and rust stains would be permanently visible on your finished item. Once your item has finished soaking, lift it out of the water, making sure to support its weight evenly so that the wet fabric doesn’t sag and stretch the garment — wool can absorb a lot of water and become quite heavy! Gently squeeze (never wring) to remove excess water. Then roll your item between clean, dry towels with light pressure to further remove moisture. Pin out the scalloped edges if your design has these. It’ll be obvious from your shawl design which points need to be pulled out and pinned.