Wait for good weather. Rather than testing fate on a day when it might rain, I waited a day or two until it was clear and sunny. You might need to repeat this step a few times before you get the scale correct. The armor in this tutorial was increased by 10% and then trimmed one at a time to get the fit to feel correct. Tune your settings. This was a mistake I made, I didn't do enough testing before hand, and I ended up printing an insane number of supports on the main piece. These ended up being really annoying to remove later, so I would recommend doing some test prints first. This could be just printing the first few layers of the model, or printing a really small version. Position the speaker between the top and bottom upper palm pieces and cut out a circle in the top piece smaller then the diameter of the speaker.

Place an led on the breadboard, the positive lead on one trace and the negative lead on another. A trace is the row of the breadboard that is electrically connected. The positive lead of an LED is the longer leg, the negative lead the shorter one.The Lilypad MP3 comes with the Trigger sketch preloaded. This sketch will play a sound from the microSD disc when the associated trigger pin (T1, T2, T3, T4, and T5) are pulled to ground. Overhaul the center disk piece. This part just didn't make any sense to me. I had to go out of my way to accommodate for it, so why not just design one that makes sense? it would also be nice to make a version for neopixel lights for more complex light behaviors. Shake the can and spray the box a bit. Get a feel for the trigger, the distance, how fast it colors, etc. Adjust the MyoWare placement - improper electrode placement can lead to a smaller signal detected by MyoWare The second will "wipe" along the ring coloring each LED green and then pulse in brightness a few times before "wiping" the LEDs off.

This is the obvious major step in this build, and you're welcome to stop after this step. Especially if you print the glove in red filament, you could make a similar build for a lot less work, but it won't have as nice a finish or color. It should be fairly self explanatory, but here was my process: Here's the plan. We're going to create a sort of double loop design. The positive loop around the base, and an elevated negative loop. These loops will be constructed of bare copper wire, each one connected to its respective lead on the battery.

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Connect a 3v power supply to the breadboard. This could be the 3v watch battery if you have a holder that can plug in, it could be a 2 cell AA battery holder, which would provide a total of 3v, or it could be a bench power supply set to 3v, to name a few options. What I did here was construct a parallel circuit, wiring 4 leds to one 3v watch battery. I would suggest wiring up the 4 leds to the battery on a breadboard before assembling it in 3D. Place the LEDs in the designated spaces, rotate so the positive loop is facing the "outside" face of the repulsor piece, and the negative lead is facing the "inside." Using spare wire or alligator clips, connect/hold one end to the Lillypad's GND pin and tap any of the trigger pins. You should hear a different sound clip for each trigger pin. To get around the stk500 sync errors, once it's done compiling (there's a green progress bar in the Arduin IDE) the green progress bar will go away, that's when you turn on your Lilypad MP3.

This is all that's really necessary. If you can't or don't want to put in the extra time, skip the rest of this step. If you want to get a better finish and a cleaner final product however, read on. Add some sensor integration. I was thinking about how best to control the light, and I found this incredible little sensor on sparkfun called a "bend sensor." This sensor acts as a variable resistor based on how much it's bent, kind of like a potentiometer. Adafruit sells one too. I was planning to hook up the lights with a simple dimming circuit either analog or with an attiny85 microcontroller. Bend the negative leads around the negative loop. You may want to twist it around several times for a secure hold later, but start by creating a tight "U" shape with the LED lead to hold the copper wire in place. Solder these 4 joints first to hold it in place, then you can either clip off the excess wire or twist it more times and solder. You should leave at least half a centimeter length between the two rings. Then use the positive and negative leads that you connected in number 3. Plug the other end of these wires into the traces connected to the positive and negative leads of the battery. The plus should denote the positive side, but if you're not sure, the circuit will only work one way, so try both! It's not that important in a simple circuit like this, but it is good practice to plug in the negative lead first.I went out and did about 6 thin coats at 30-60 minute intervals. This layering allowed the paint to adhere, prevented bubbles, lumps and drips. The strategy is basically to keep doing more coats until you get the color you want. This step took way more work than I was expecting and is fairly optional, but in my opinion it was totally worth it. Here's the bottom line: Decrease the system threshold in the Arduino code - the default threshold is just a suggestion you can increase it to make the system require a stronger flex to trigger or decrease to require a weaker flex. Warning - this could increase false triggering. Next we want to connect a switch between the power lead of the battery and the power lead of the LED. Unplug the wire connecting the power lead of the battery and the power leads of the LEDs. Plug one lead of the switch into the "power rail," and the other(s) into adjacent rails. Finally, connect wire to trace of the other lead of the switch to complete the circuit.