Games Workshop Citadel Layer: Sotek Green

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Skorpekh Destroyers. Credit: Wings Skorpekh Destroyers. Credit: Wings Skorpekh Destroyers. Credit: Wings Skorpekh Destroyers. Credit: Wings Skorpekh Destroyers. Credit: Wings I did an Army Painter Strong Tone wash over the armor, weapon parts, and disc parts that were still silver, then based with sand and blue tufts from Gamers Grass.

Once the final reflection is added to the gems its time to build up the base. While its not as important on these small bases, I like using multiple texture paints as it introduces enough variation in elevation to prevent the models from appearing to be on a perfectly flat plane without much added effort. I neglected to take step-by-step photos while painting, so here are the recipes and a couple of screenshots! I use mostly non-GW paints, but the exact paints are less important than the colors and the techniques. Paint the base of the hair with Contrast Shyish Purple and the tips with Contrast Aethermatic Blue. While you have that open, dab a little in the eyes too.

If you are looking to save time it’s worth remembering with stuff like this that even basic layering like this blends together very well on the table top. Even in close up shots kind of gets smoothed out when you have sharp contrasts like the recess colours and edge highlights going on.

Rob: Look, the only way this ends is either with a guide to Contrast Painting all five Necron Dynasties or with fresh photos of Spider-Man on my desk tomorrow. Lay down a thin layer of Vallejo Model Air Light Gull Gray on the bone bits – you want this to be thin and ever so slightly inconsistent to give the effect of weathered and bleached bone Drybrush a 2:1 mix of Vallejo Model Color Ivory and German Grey, focusing on the chest, shoulders, arms, and knees Step 3: I’m doing orange weapons. I do a few thin coats of Trollslayer Orange to start. Dot the eye, do the glowing parts of the gun and the cables. Right, so with a new project, I decided to mix it up and try some with a Metallic undercoat and some with Grey Seer Undercoat. After that, I experimented with Contrast Iyanden Yellow versus T aimiya Gold Leaf and Retributor Gold to see what I liked best.Next up I did a basecoat of Ultramarines Blue Contrast Paint to lay down the base color. Swiftblade recommended I use Macragge Blue but I didn’t have any of that sitting around and this is basically the same shade. Necron Overlord. Credit: Robert “TheChirurgeon” Jones Cryptek Plasmancer. Credit: Robert “TheChirurgeon” Jones Royal Warden. Credit: Robert “TheChirurgeon” Jones Skorpekh Lord. Credit: Robert “TheChirurgeon” Jones

For the orange robes I slowly stepped colours up similarly to the cloak, but for the armor I only used Fire Dragon Bright and Bestigor Flesh for simplicity.

Lugganath by Rockfish

Where I really leaned into the Greek theme was with my red accent color. Blame 300 coming out in my formative years, but I thought going with a Spartan-adjacent theme would really sell the ancient Greek aesthetic. I used a very similar process for the plumes, shoulders, shields and capes here, with the only difference being what wash I used. My characters tend to follow the same process, with some minor variations and more complicated schemes.