Fine Surface Primer L - Light Gray 180ml Spray Can

Product Information

Primers, like the Tamiya Surface Primers, are designed so that when you paint your models, they don’t flake or chip off when handling. I'm quite happy with the finish, for my first attempt anyway (the last time I used a spray can was to spray a Honda exhaust manifold heat shield with heat proof paint about 10 years ago and before that I can't even remember). No bits of dust or any real blemishes in the paint, so it's been a good learning experience so far.

Sand between coats, I don't do that but good model maker does. This brings out the shine. I also don't see the point in doing so for a RC which will get scratched anyway. Definitely use a primer. I don't think I've ever painted a TS paint without a primer, but I doubt the results would be very good.Immediately take in after spraying to dry Overnight (8 - 12 hours) indoors while protecting from rain or snow if the path from out to in is exposed. Do not let it dry in the shed! Just make sure you use them outdoors or in a well-ventilated environment to prevent inhaling the fumes. Also, be sure to wear a facemask when priming, even outdoors. How many coats do you need to paint with Tamiya primer Plus, it won’t require any sanding to get a perfectly matte finish with anything other than the primer. Tamiya primer maintains your model’s details You can use other paint brands with Tamiya primers, but you need to be sure the paint is lacquer or alcohol-based. If you plan to use acrylic paints, get acrylic primers.

Hey guys, so sprayed up the Grasshopper 2 shell with primer and top coats of TC paint. It went pretty well and the cardboard spray booth worked quite well, but I'm glad I covered up my motorcycle with a couple of old sheets - thanks for the advice on the 'dust' @alvinlwh, I would've been gutted if this had got damaged... before you worry about paint, make sure you key the body, then wash it with fairy up liquid and thoroughly dry it with a clean, non-floof-dropping towel (I find teatowels or microfibre cloths best). Not sure what your water is like in Farnbro but over here in West Wilts it's so hard you could hit someone over the head with it, if you leave a water blob on the surface it'll dry into a ring of healthy minerals and be visible all the way to the topcoat. How to remove Tamiya paint / How to clean brushes: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=75942&p=582620 For me I mainly use flat TS paint so the dry time is significantly shorter than gloss paints. I only wait 2 min between coats, do all the sanding #1500 as needed between coats and re-spray. For gloss I give it a couple more minutes between coats, and finish with a wet coat for high gloss. I do not use glossy clear coat.

Requirements & Suggestions

Getting a primer is always one of the first things on your to-do list when preparing for a painting project. But, all primers won’t work the same. Then I just threw all the small parts right into the 23ml jar, closed the lid firmly and shook the jar for about half a minute. Right before my eyes, I could see how the Methoxypropanol dissolved the primer with ease. I opened the jar, poured the content into box with the large main hull parts, took out the small parts and dryed them with a paper towel. I closed the box again with the large parts only and leftover liquid inside. I don't use primer unless the plastic color is significantly different from the paint I want to use.. like if going from red molding to white, or painting 2 completely different colored panels a same color, I would use primer. Plus, it gives you a very thin coat without any texture or scratch-filling power so that you get perfectly leveled detail and don’t fill shallow panel lines. I use Vallejo's Model Color water-based acrylics on figures. But I also use Andrea water-based acrylics, and craft-store brands like Apple Barrel, Americana, and Folk Art.