Gilboys 'Pure Gold' Premium Beeswax Furniture Polish (125ml)

Product Information

The only way to fix this is by stripping and refinishing. You may want to employ someone to do this or you can give it a go yourself. This may sound like it's a bit beyond your abilities but I can assure you it is not that difficult. Once you are happy that the wood is ready for sealing then proceed as you have done before. I'm not a fan of danish oil, it takes too long to dry and hasn't got much of a body to it. Hard wax oils are much better in my opinion. They give a much better finish on teak coffee tables.

Use the wire wool to spread the wax out over the table top with a little gentle pressure, running with the grain straight across from one side to the other until it is evenly distributed across the whole table top Pictures are bare sanded to 120 grit (left somewhat rustic as I like the history to show) and then the colour after one coat to show the change. I was worried after sanding that the warmth was gone and the floors would look like the ashy grey polyeurethane finished or laminate floors - such a relief to see the colour come up again, while keeping the room much lighter than the old “antiquey style” varnish/stain that was on before. More coats doesn’t seem to impact the colour but the finish is far smoother and will obviously be more hardwearing

Many manufacturers will be using fake beeswax in their polishes. It’s a synthetic and very cheap substitute created by the chemical industry to mimic the properties of beeswax. Because modern furniture (100 years or less) was better all round sealed it is much less likely to suffer from heat and moisture shrinkage. I have tried my very upmost to make this as clear as possible, as I do not want my customers to be mislead in believing that our polish is a 'cure all' beeswax polish. It won't help me or you, with misleading information. Rougher surfaces may increase the drying time and will require more applications to achieve a smooth finish.

Two jars of Gilboy's Antique Gold beeswax furniture polish ( each jar will cover approximately 12m² or five to six standard size dining tables ) No white (mineral) spirits, No toluene, No aggressive petrochemical solvents and definitely NO SILICONE I personally believe that the cheaper brands were diluting the turpentine with a turps substitute which dramatically altered the composition of our wax polish formula and also its aromatic properties. It also could explain how they were 100% cheaper than the others. We carried out a number of blind smell tests over a cross section of people and it was fairly conclusive that the more expensive turpentine product was very much favoured. Without hesitation I chose to use it. Having looked at the image of your dining table I would strongly suggest you don't use paste wax polish on it. I’ll explain why.. jar of Gilboys 'rose gold' beeswax furniture polish ( will cover approximately 12m² or five to six standard size dining tables )Many manufacturers may add a little linseed oil to the mix which will help the drying process once applied and also give the wax more of a paste like consistency. There is nothing wrong with this as long as they get the ratios right. But only too often manufacturers will use too much mixed with other chemicals, and rely on emotional marketing to make you believe that their product is good. There is no need to use vinegar/acetic acid - I used it in the video because I was using a solvent chemical stripper. Unfortunately, like many industries these days, wax polish manufacturers are trapped in a 'race to the bottom' of reducing prices and costs by replacing high quality natural ingredients with inferior cheap petrochemical substitutes.

The images clearly show the original finish on these oak chairs has deteriorated so much that it is now flaking away. Now I must say that it is not always that obvious your finish has started to do this, especially on furniture that has only had a very thin finish in the first place. A 100% beeswax finish is too soft and wont offer the long term protection, thats's why we blend ours with the hardest of all natural waxes; T1-grade carnauba wax. This is another natural wax, produced by the Copernicia Prunifera tree to protect its leaves from water, pathogens and UV radiation. As the hardest of all natural waxes with the highest melting point (around 85°C) it helps Gilboy's Gold to provide a strong and harder-wearing protective finish. Stir the hard wax oil: Before applying, stir the hard wax oil thoroughly to ensure an even mixture of oils and waxes.

We are proud of the efforts we have made to minimise the impact our business has on the environment: This beeswax polishing kit contains everything you need to polish and protect the finish of your mid-century teak furniture: All natural waxes: carnauba wax, myrica wax, japan wax and berry wax specially formulated for a long-lasting and durable finish Sand the wood up through the sandpaper grades, From 180, 240 up to 320 grit. This will help when applying the wax. Having a fine sanded surface will prevent too much of the wax being absorbed forcing it to sit on the surface. Depending on the ambient temperature, leave the wax to dry for a couple of hours or preferably overnight.

Birch wood has no visible character grain and is not commonly used as decorative wood finish. It is quite difficult for french polishers (or wood finishers) to achieve an appealing surface finish. It does give a unique look when combined with a stain or applied colour which your table has. 🙂 Use the included open-weave cotton buffing cloth to gently buff the wax to your preferred level of lustre. An open-weave cloth helps to prevent smearing. We have used most of the leading brands of polish in our workshop over the past 30 years but the question is what’s in them and where do the ingredients come from?

Application

We have ensured there is enough in each tin to cover a single piece of furniture (depending on the absorption rate of the wood) such as dining table, gate-leg table, bureau, chest of drawers, or four to six dining chairs. Hard wax oil finishes have really come on in recent years and I really like the way they produce a lovely hardwearing, easy to apply and natural looking finish. Combined with Gilboys beeswax polish, it's an almost perfect wax finish which most people can achieve with no necessary experience in wood finishing.You can see me demonstrating how you can do it in the video below…