Tamiya RC Radio Control Car 1/10 Electric Wild Willy 2 Jeep Kit

Product Information

This is a remote control kit that requires assembly. The Styrene body of the kit comes as a Military Green Colour, so it does not necessarily require painting. If you do decide to repaint the body, Hard Plastic Spray Paint (TS) is appropriate. The driver figure comes blank so requires painting, either by using the suggested paint schemes or however else you would like! I don't own either of these so no photographs, but fundamentally the chassis are the same as the Willy's Wheeler but with different tyres, and an extended chassis tub and mechanism box lid. Neither have a wheelie bar.

I did try to split the diff but one of the two directly opposing screws doesn't release so I guessed something inside is broken? Alternatively, be gentle with it, and otherwise enjoy it on the shelf. And buy something else (newer and cheaper) for the kids to mess with.

The two variants can easily be identified by the "Arm Stay".(the font attachment of the rear swing arms, easy to se on the outside of the radio box. A circular hole in it confirms a SWB while an oval hole confirms a LWB model. The Hornet (re-re) - 18T, 0.8mod; mad brushless: use 10T midnight pumpkin / lunchbox 10T/0.8mod gear & gearbox fittings (Thanks Jonny Retro)

L10/L15/L14/L3/L2/L9/L16 (Willys body) glue it all together, do a test fit with steeringwheel/shifterknop fitted before glueing on his arms though, so they're fitted in the right angle My Mardave Meteor on the other hand, has a spur gear with 28 teeth, and a diameter of 0.83 inches - which comes out at 33.9 - again taking into account the fact I measured in mm & converted, + rounding = 32dp.The large body clips are the reverse of the norm - the "inside" extending part should have the bends & fold to accommodate the body post, not the outside as on every other Tamiya car. For the photo, it looks very much like the one on the right (tyres, body etc) but does have a spring loaded front bumper with no damage on it. As I said, I was going to bolt some much wider, sacrificial perspex to it to protect the entire front end.

I've done similar projects for several platforms over the years, to later see the model I wanted/built was eventually released by Tamiya - like with the various Land Cruisers. If you like a fun car to drive, the re release Wild Willy can take a beating too and its a good racer as well (imo), on the right surface it can drift and slide, do donuts, survives rolls etc, to keep the nose down you could put some weight up front. And have a look at youtube there are some very nice video's with Willy, the tamiya wheelie models are very versatile (think that came out of a Tamiya commercial ). And if you are going to keep the M38 as a valued classic you defo need the rere. Subaru Brat (re-re) - 16T, 18T, 19T depending on spur gear, 0.8 mod metric (32 dp also fit) - thanks Jonny Retro I'll cover the chassis differences (between the M38 SWB & LWB) in a later article. Willy's Wheeler vs Wild Willy M38sRear Spring Stays have a larger hole on the LWB and the brass fitting has a corresponding extra step. LWB tub has slots for the antenna wire, resistor & battery leads (these correspond to slots in the Mechanism Box Lid); I also came across HPI Wheelie King rims and the tires on the net and they have the look I'm after. They look closer to the WW2 tires, but bigger. And I like the chevron look better as of the Traxxas ones.