I just upgraded from Panasonic GX85 to a A7RIV and would like to know if my Godox TT350o flash will work in any way with the A7RIV. The Godox TT350 is a flash unit that is compatible with Olympus cameras. It has a flash guide number of 36m and a color temperature of 5600K. The flash duration ranges from 1/350s for minimum power to 1/20000s for maximum power. It offers stroboscopic flash modes and has 3 group settings and 16 channels.

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The battery compartment is pretty straightforward, except it only holds two AA batteries, which gives you a big hint about its power output (spoiler: it’s not super powerful, but it’s great). working in a large urban hotel, I've found radio interference from nearby wifi, wireless mics, and God knows what else to seriously decrease the range and also make triggering very unreliable - like, only 20% success in a medium conference room. This is with Adorama's Zoom Mini (TT350) on-camera and a pair of Zoom Li-on R2s (V860II) on stands. On the theory that it would have greater radio power than the Zoom Mini, I got an R2 (X1). That had no problem triggering a pair of Zoom Li-ons 100' away in a large ballroom. As an on-camera transmitter with TT600 units as slaves, everything works perfectly. Remote power control and HSS are flawless. However, as a YN-622 user, I note that there's no remote zoom control, and no setting groups into MULTI mode remotely. Power is my secondary concern. I occasionally shoot large format. And when using it, I am concerned that the smaller TT350 won't have enough power. I.e. (EI 400 at f/16)I bookmarked this post and found it helpful as I was considering TT350 and V860II for my GX7. So now I'll add an odd finding for discussion and consideration. First, working in a large urban hotel, I've found radio interference from nearby wifi, wireless mics, and God knows what else to seriously decrease the range and also make triggering very unreliable - like, only 20% success in a medium conference room. This is with Adorama's Zoom Mini (TT350) on-camera and a pair of Zoom Li-on R2s (V860II) on stands. On the theory that it would have greater radio power than the Zoom Mini, I got an R2 (X1). That had no problem triggering a pair of Zoom Li-ons 100' away in a large ballroom. To get the most from your camera gear, I think you will need more lighting options. You should be aiming for close to base ISO while shooting at around f/8. In this shot, you are already at ISO 400 and shooting nearly wide open. My recommendation is if you want it as an on-camera flash, don't hesitate. If you want it as an on-camera transmitter, consider getting an X1T-O or wait for the XPro-O. If you want it only as an off-camera slave, I'd recommend a TT600 instead, because it's cheaper and has more power and because Idon't have HSS issues with it. But. YMMV. had the flash pointed up and a little bit forward toward the subject to be evenly lit. I found bouncing off the sides didn't work as well for what I wanted.

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The controller and strobes are very easy to set up and so far have proved very accurate in ttl mode and as measured by my Sekonic Flashmate L-308S-U. (a must have in my opinion although I resisted for years) My old 433MHz R1 triggers always worked perfectly - though they don't support TTL - so these will be my Plan B for high-interference situations until the R2 can be made to work properly and reliably with all my GX7's AF modes. Whether you're a seasoned professional or just starting out, this subreddit is the perfect place to ask questions, seek advice, and engage in discussions about all things photography. We're here to foster a supportive and knowledgeable community that shares a passion for capturing the world through the lens.Even though I love my TT685 flashes, and the usual recommendation is to have all the power you can, sometimes you need just a tiny bit of light added to your image. This is especially true when shooting at dusk or at night, and the Godox TT350 has been perfect for those situations. Flashpoint Zoom Mini (Godox TT350) Getting the light off camera is a good start. You can move it closer to the subject which gives you more and better light, and then experiment with a softbox or umbrella. A second flash gives you more options on how to light your subject. But if you want pursue this to the point of charging for your services, then monolights/strobes are a much better way to go. They recycle faster and will give you power to spare.

Godox TT350 - Godox - studio photography equipment, pocket

It kind of depends on your definition of works. Panasonic users seem to be having a slightly harder time, particularly with HSS function, than Olympus users with the Godox -O gear. It's the perfect size/weight for my GX7. All firmware is up-to-date. One Zoom Li-on can trigger the other in any AF mode, so this odd behavior is unique to the R2.The TT350 is Godox’ smallest, AA batteries-based, hot shoe flash. It has a guide number of 35m at ISO 100 and 100mm zoom (equivalent), so it’s comparable to Canon’s 320EX or Sony’s HVL-F43RM. As it happens with all current Godox flashes, it has an integrated transceiver so it can control other flashes or it can be controlled remotely through Godox’s proprietary radio frequency system. It’s available for Canon, Sony, Nikon, Fujifilm, Micro 4/3 and Pentax cameras. There's also the fact that the FL600R's AF assist doesn't work on older micro four-thirds bodies, indicating Olympus or Panasonic may have changed the hotshoe protocol midstream. And whether or not those changes were included in any documentation they have of the hotshoe "standard" that a 3rd party could use to develop from is in question. Even with the Canon Godox gear, the AF assist works great—unless you have a 5DMkIV. So it appears Canon silently changed the hotshoe protocol again. In other words, Godox may be trying to hit a moving target, with no information on where/how/when it moved. The SK II, DP II, QS iI, and QT II Godox plug-in strobes all have built-in receivers for the X-system. None of them do TTL, the QT II can do HSS. But all of them can have their power remotely controlled from an X transmitter unit. Pressing and holding the SLAVE button allows you to change the channel used to communicate with the slave units. Radio – Slave

Panasonic GH5 with Godox tt350o flash: Micro Four Thirds Talk Panasonic GH5 with Godox tt350o flash: Micro Four Thirds Talk

As an on-camera transmitter with a TT685C (I also shoot Canon) with upgraded firmware and in OLPS (Olympus) slave mode, however, the picture is muddier. If I use the combination indoors or in low light outdoors, everything works. If I then move this working combination to bright light (near a window, outside in sunny-16), everything goes to hell in a handbasket. TTL fires out of sync, and HSS refuses to fire at all. In M and out of HSS, remote power control and firing work fine. [facepalm]. Same behavior with my G3. As I mentioned in the Godox TT685, there’s one important consideration when using radio frequency systems: they are, usually, not compatible with each other. If you have Godox flashes, they can only be triggered with a Godox Master, but not a Yongnuo or Nissin or Canon transmitter. Summary

Have a look at the pic of my three year old. I shot it with the 25mm f/1.7 Panasonic lens and the settings were at f/2.2 ISO 400 and 1/160 with my tt350o flash power set to 1/2 power. I had the flash pointed up and a little bit forward toward the subject to be evenly lit. I found bouncing off the sides didn't work as well for what I wanted. Godox/Yongnuo/other cheap Chinese flash gear tends to be initially reverse-engineered off Canon, and then adapted for other platforms. If the adapted platform doesn't work the way Canon does, there can be issues or they can just drop the feature for that platform. Low light focus is an issue. When the Olympus has a flash unit on it the focus assist light appears to be inactive (although it appears to come on every now and then). However, testing at home shows that a shutter press on my GX7 with R2 mounted will trigger the Zoom Li-Ions only if the camera is in AFF or AFC mode, not in AFS. Weird. All firmware is up-to-date. One Zoom Li-on can trigger the other in any AF mode, so this odd behavior is unique to the R2. F8 and smaller incurs diffraction softening on Micro Four Thirds. F2.2 on MFT is the equivalent of f4.4 on a 35mm-format camera.