Nikon L35AF Camera

Product Information

It’s hard to explain, but I just liked the images from the Nikon better after comparing a few rolls. In your review you talk about a way to make sure the Canon’s focused by using the self-timer lever. Canon also says this method should be used when trying to selectively focus. Since the camera uses a central spot in the viewfinder for focus, whatever is in the middle of the frame when the shutter release happens is what will be in focus. Obviously this becomes a problem when shooting subjects that are off-center, as happens constantly in photography (rule of 3rds, am I right?). By using the self-tim-err… I mean, “Pre-Focus Lever” it’s possible to selectively focus, recompose, and press the shutter release button again to snap the shot. Again, this is too cumbersome, especially considering the ease of use found in Nikon’s half-press method. Beautiful Nikon L35AF 35mm compact point & shoot camera set. It's been professionally serviced and film tested - ready for another 40 years of service. It's available in my camera shop at www.ccstudio2380.com How did I mess things up? It seems that if the lighting in a scene requires a long exposure, the photographer needs to hold the shutter release button down for the duration of the exposure, rather than press and release the button. Since there’s no way to tell how long the shutter will remain open, it’s important to be aware of this weird functionality when shooting in low-light and remember to listen for the shutter to close before releasing the button. This can be a little annoying, but it beats using a flash when trying to achieve naturally lit, low-light images.

Nikon L35AF – Pikaichi - Photo Thinking - Camera Review

As mentioned, the viewfinder displays an autofocus distance readout. Very similar to the likes of the one in the Pentax PC35AF; the action of the shutter button moves a needle along the bottom of the viewfinder across a distance scale. Distances are indicated by four scale icons, with where the needle resting on or between them giving the idea of focused distance. It’s useful, but combined with the aforementioned long throw shutter button, it feels even more clunky and antiquated to me. I had the exact same complaint about the Pentax.If you like point-n-shoot cameras the one I’d recommend is the Pentax PC35AF. This was a pro point-n-shoot in its day. No motorized film advance to break. Quiet for street/candids. Not motor to break. Made of metal and surprisingly small. It’s my all-time favorite point-n-shoot. Also it doesn’t cost a fortune but is a little hard to find. Reply There is quite distinct vignetting, a by-product of a lens design not really aimed at wide angle.For me though, it really adds to the look.It is not specifically strong and has a subtle graduation, but if you are looking for edge to edge constant exposure, this may not be to your taste.

Nikon L35AD2 (L35AF2) Point-and-Shoot Camera Review Nikon L35AD2 (L35AF2) Point-and-Shoot Camera Review

For all of the advancements these models boasted, it wouldn’t be for much if the images weren’t any good. While we generally think today that your basic point and shoot camera should be cheaply built with a low expectation for quality optics and sharp images, these cameras pre-dated that “disposable” mentality that has become so prevalent over the past couple of decades. Both of these cameras had lenses that their respective manufacturers were proud of, and it’s this reputation that has allowed these models to enjoy some level of desirability among collectors nearly 3 decades later.

Exposure: Fully automatic, range EV 6 (f/2.8 at 1/8 sec.) to EV 17 (f/17.5 at 1/430 sec.) with ASA/ISO 100 film That said, I hate the shutter button of the L35AF, as I find it too “mushy”. My favorite shutter button of all compacts I tried during the years, as of now, is the one of the original Olympus XA. It was a real hair-trigger! Really useful for catching the right moment. The auto-exposure system uses a CdS photo-resistor, and it’s one of the best metering systems found in a vintage compact. Even in the most challenging situations, such as night shooting and shooting in bright snow, under- and over-exposures are very rare. In two test rolls of 24 and 36 exposures, only two frames were off, and it was discovered that this was due to the reviewer being unaware of one of this camera’s strange eccentricities. It does has a fair amount of 80’s charm to the design. though. It is perhaps a little more conservative than the Ricoh ff90 for example – though I guess it wasn’t until the post transformers late 80’s that industrial design got quite as hard and as angular. Of course, like many 80’s cameras it has the standard flash of red that made everything in the 1980’s look cool. I personally really like the way it looks, to me, perhaps because of when I was born, this camera is what I think cameras should look like – a little like the Ford Escort mkiii looks like what cars should look like to me. Handling Great review, thanks! One more thing to add… if you’re shopping for one of these, Nikon made two different models. The earlier one only goes up to 400 ASA. The later model goes all the way to 1000 ASA. Reply

Nikon L35AF - a mini review - by Giacomo Zema - 35mmc

I am a bit of a control freak when it comes to shooting film, but having a little bit of experience with 1980s auto focus plastic cameras, I felt more prepared to just trust that the camera would handle everything with little to no input from me. This may sound daft, but in practice this works really well – and one huge benefit over most of the other point-and-shoots is: you will never flash people by accident because you forgot to turn it off – you will most definitely notice the Pikaichi’s flash popping up (*TSCHAKKK!*) These images reflect 8 of that roll of 24, and I am happy to report that every single image was correctly in focus. Nikon had clearly worked out any auto focus kinks by 1987 when this camera first went on sale. To change the ISO there is a small ring around the lens which you have to rotate, you will see the ISO number change in a small window as you rotate it, some L35AFs go to 400 and some go to 1000, the 1000 ISO camera is slightly more desirable. To load the Nikon L35AF with filmBoth models have a self timer, the ability to pre-focus on an object not in the center of the viewfinder, and a flash override, all three of which are more eloquently executed on the Nikon.

Nikon L35AF/AD | Camerapedia | Fandom Nikon L35AF/AD | Camerapedia | Fandom

With the Nikon L35af, the attraction seems a little less obvious to me. Yes it is a camera with a wonderfully simple level of function that does indeed make you wonder what else you co I actually really like this simplistic approach to flash, it removes the need for a flash menu, and whilst it means there aren’t any fancy red eye or fill flash modes, I so infrequently use those, it doesn’t bother me too much. And actually, it looks to have some sort of automatic flash diffuser that pops up sometimes… Perhaps someone in the know might be able to shed some light, so to speak, on what that does and when? Focusing, the lens and its macro designation Image quality from the 35mm f/2.8 is excellent. There’s no distortion, there’s very little vignetting, there’s hardly any aberrations even when shooting in direct sunlight, and those that present do so in an elegant way. Images are punchy and sharp from corner to corner. Micro-contrast is high, and with a maximum aperture of f/2.8 and capability of metering film up to ISO 1600, it’s easy to shoot in low light. The lens doesn’t say “Nikkor,” but it doesn’t need to when the results are this good. Similar accuracy characterizes the autoexposure system of the Nikon L35AW. It uses a CdS cell to control exposures from EV6 (f/2.8 at 1/8th of a second) to EV17 (f/17.5 at 1/430th of a second) at ISO 100. In low light, the shutter (which also acts as the aperture) can remain open for approximately two seconds, though it’s important for the photographer to remember to continue holding the shutter release button until the shutter closes. Releasing the shutter release button before the camera has cycled through a long exposure will cancel the exposure and close the shutter prematurely, resulting in an under-exposed shot.And you’re certainly right that the lens has character, after all it’s a Sonnar, my all-time favorite optical scheme. I shoot on different formats of film and on FF digital, but 3/4 or more of my lenses are Sonnar or Sonnar-schemes; I didn’t do this on purpose, it just happened after many years that the lenses that got “culled/sold” were almost always the non-Sonnar… I just found one which looked to be fine. The body has no wear and looks top-notch. But when I insert a battery and turn the camera on, the camera keeps making a winding sound, even if I open the camera. This is my 5th Nikon L35 but i never seen this problem. But I do have to disagree with you. Apart from the battery door (which is a known weak point), I do not see an issue with the on/off switch. With the flash, compacts from the 1980’s well into the 2000’s had flash auto on as standard, which while annoying, you cannot point to one specific camera and say it is a build issue.