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Razer Panthera Evo: Fully Mod-Capable - Sanwa Joystick and Buttons - Internal Storage Compartment - Tournament Arcade Stick for PS4 and PS%

£9.9£99Clearance
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About this deal

If you do not intend to replace the pushbuttons, the process to replace artwork is complete. You can now reverse the steps to reattach the tinted acrylic cover. The design of the EVO is similar to the original Panthera with a few exceptions. Firstly, there’s still the plastic exterior and metal base at the bottom, which has some anti-slip rubber strips. The original Panthera had two large rubber pads on the bottom instead of strips, but I find these work just as well on the EVO. NOTE: YOU DO NOT NEED TO USE ALL 8 GROUND PINS ON THE RAZER PCB!!! The Razer 16-pin harness had 8 individual wires that each connected ground to a different button. However, your new 20-pin harness that connects to the Kaimana Mini uses 1 ground wire that daisy-chains to every button. This means you only need one ground wire for all of the buttons. I corroborated this with a certified electrician, so no need to somehow condense 8 ground wires into 1 wire for no reason whatsoever! Ok, so I searched EVERYWHERE on the internet for a tutorial on how to add kaimana LED's to a razer panthera, and there was only one post by u/carpedro from about a year ago. That post laid some very important groundwork on how to approach modding the panthera, and also gave some information such as button diagrams and other important discoveries. However, some of his explanations were a tad confusing, and some things in the tutorial could be simplified to make the whole process a lot easier.

Razer Panthera Razer Panthera

Then, daisy-chain your LED's and connect them to your Mini. Here is a great tutorial on how to do this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mKty1h_pj54

Essentially, each of the 8 pins on the bottom row goes to a specific button, while the top 8 pins all go to ground. The artwork, a large blue Razer logo, is essentially the same as the original. The big plus, this time around, is that the artwork can now be changed easily. You're basically done! To make your life a billion times easier, use two of the screws you set aside from the beginning and screw down the razer pcb with them. Use the remaining two screws to secure the Breakout to the other holes in the case. Just make sure not to screw down the breakout too much, as there's no protective casing at the bottom, and you don't want to accidentally damage it. Zip-tie or shove the wires in whatever way you please, and you're good to go! The main function buttons have been moved to the top right and are lined up accordingly, giving it a much cleaner look. There’s an added mute and volume button for the mic which is nice.

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You now need to get power to the Kaimana from the USB port. You'll notice that the USB wires are soldered/glued onto the board, and that there are five pins next to next to them. Take your remaining two jumper wires and plug them into the 1st and 4th pins going from top to bottom, like This. --- ALTERNATE VIEW

In some instances, a button brand or model does not have a 24mm equivalent with art cap. In this case, we will cut to the default size of Sanwa 24mm insert.

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