Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 35mm f/1.4G Lens

£9.9
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Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 35mm f/1.4G Lens

Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 35mm f/1.4G Lens

RRP: £99
Price: £9.9
£9.9 FREE Shipping

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Maximum Aperture – the Nikon 35mm f/1.8G has a maximum aperture of f/1.8, while the Nikon 50mm f/1.4G has a maximum aperture of f/1.4. Both lenses are very fast, but the 50mm can pass through slightly more light than the 35mm lens. However, some people do shop for primes because they want portability; they care less about how sharp a prime is versus an f/2.8 zoom; really what they want is the lightest, smallest possible lens that still has decent image quality after stopping the aperture down a stop or two. Speaking of weather sealing, I have used the Nikon Z 35mm f/1.8 S in hot, sandy, freezing and rainy weather conditions during the past 8 months and I have not encountered any problems with its weather sealing. On one occasion, I let moderate rain fall directly on the lens that was attached to the Nikon Z6 and both the camera and the lens continued to function without any issues. Please keep in mind that while the lens is weather-resistant, it is not waterproof, so you should still avoid splashing water on the lens and subjecting it to extreme humidity. NIKON Z 7 + NIKKOR Z 35mm f/1.8 S @ 35mm, ISO 64, 5/1, f/11.0 Hi there, I recently bought a D3200. I am wanting to dabble in photography because of how much I love doing it, mainly couples, family, portraits, etc. I bought the Nikon 50mm f/1.8G after reading your post and absolutely love shooting with it. I want to start a portfolio and begin taking more photos, eventually I would love to become a wedding photographer. I have done a lot of research but would love a professionals opinion: what lens should i invest in next as far as taking larger, group shots yet still achieving beautiful bokeh?

This Nikon 35mm f/1.8G lens is a compact, lightweight, fast normal to wide-angle lens for full-frame FX and 35mm cameras. It has great optics and ergonomics in a lightweight housing. Grab the focus ring at any time for instant manual-focus override. Medium range compositions, where you photograph some of the environment and one main subject, are perfect for a 35mm lens. You can get in close and still easily show enough of the surroundings to keep your subject in contextwith your photo story. Flare and distortion are almost nonexistent. Tamron has definitely developed some high-quality lens coatings that are on par with any exotic name brand! Bokeh & DOF Both photos of the Prague Castle were taken with identical exposure values of ISO 64 and f/16. It was only necessary to correct the shutter speed due to the fading light. For Pergear it was 90 seconds, and for the Nikon it was 120 seconds. This had at most a small effect on the flare/sunstar differences. Sharpness and Contrast When stopped down, the Nikon 50mm f/1.4G clearly takes the lead – it is certainly sharper and has much less chromatic aberration.I started my photography business off by offering free shoots and letting people know I was learning. I then started mini shoots on holidays and charged a little bit for those, again, letting them know I was still using them as a learning experience. I did almost all of this with the kit lens. As expected, vignetting, or darkening of the image at the edges, is noticeable with the lens wide open. But I was surprised that even f/8 or f/16 did not completely eliminate it. On the contrary, the dark corners remain pronounced at these apertures. So much so that in some photos, I had to use a clone stamp when editing the sky. Please note that both images were taken without any filters. Using UV and other filters can potentially introduce more flares and ghosting to your images. Distortion As expected, the lens starts out a bit weaker wide open, with its overall performance increasing as you stop down. By f/2 it reaches very good sharpness and by f/2.8 it is excellent. Its maximum performance is achieved at f/4, with the lens showcasing excellent performance at the edges of the frame. Lastly, don’t forget a solid macro lens to capture detail shots, such as when photographing wedding rings, bouquets, invitation cards and other details. While there are a few macro lens options available from Nikon, both classic and modern, as well as an 85mm tilt-shift lens option, my recommendation would be to go with the Nikon Z MC 105mm f/2.8 VR S Macro or the F-mount Nikon 105mm f/2.8G VR Micro lens.

Nikon’s latest marvel, the Nikon 105mm f/1.4E is an absolutely beautiful gem in every way. It combines the beautiful characteristics of the 85mm f/1.4G with stunning sharpness, even at the maximum aperture of f/1.4. When Nikon announced the lens, it was world’s first 105mm lens with such a large aperture – the previous generation 105mm lens was an f/2. Currently, there is no Z-mount version of this amazing lens, but it works great with the FTZ II adapter. Simply put, the Tamron SP 35 is better. It’s not just significantly sharper than almost every other 35mm out there, it’s got a whole lot else going for it, which we’ll get into when we break down the image quality. Suffice it to say, it’s other things like color, bokeh, and everything else which make up the ambiguous aspect of “character” that images have. So, definitely make sure you expose your images correctly, and use a lens profile (already available in Adobe Camera Raw) to handle vignetting and any faint distortion…I noticed that the amount of distortion on the Nikon 35mm f/1.4G is a little higher than on the Nikon 24mm f/1.4G, which is a little disappointing. Imatest measured barrel distortion of 1.16%, which is not too extreme, but not particularly low either. I was expecting less distortion on a longer focal length lens, but unfortunately, it is not the case. There is a slight amount of barrel distortion that is clearly visible when photographing straight objects. Take a look at this image shot at a distance of 2 meters: The thin, diagonally growing branches in the corners of the image show a degree of chromatic aberration. With the lens stopped down to f/5.6 or f/8, the situation improves and the aberration is already at a very acceptable level. This is especially true if you take advantage of the de-fringing corrections provided by virtually all imaging software. Source image 100% crop Sunstars and Flare Personally, I believe that the future potential advantage of the focus by wire system far outweighs its current problems and limitations. so I believe that Nikon made the right decision by incorporating it into all Z lenses. With the focus by wire system, it is possible to not only improve autofocus speed and accuracy, but also to provide more fine-tuned control of focusing operations. In addition, since the focus ring is operated electronically, those who do not particularly care for manual focusing can reprogram it to adjust other camera settings such as camera aperture. NIKON Z 7 + NIKKOR Z 35mm f/1.8 S @ 35mm, ISO 3200, 1/80, f/1.8 There might be other cases where using a wide-angle lens is going to be required to be able to fully reveal the scene / location in which the newlyweds, or perhaps a group of people are located: NIKON D750 + 20mm f/1.8 @ ISO 200, 1/60, f/5.6

Working with a model and using a 35mm lens it is important to build a rapport with them first. You do not want them feeling uncomfortable with you being so close. Showing them a sample of the photos you are taking will often help them relax and build their confidence in what you are doing. This is especially so if the model is concerned that being so close to the camera may be distorting their features. The above is nothing new – Nikon’s published MTF for the Nikon 35mm f/1.8G clearly shows that it is supposed to be sharper than the Nikon 50mm f/1.4G when shot at the maximum aperture. Optical Construction: 14 elements in 10 groups, 3 aspherical, 4 LD (low dispersion), BBAR-G2 coating (Broad-Band Anti-Reflection Generation 2), fluorine coating Login to access your dashboard, watch tutorials, submit photos for critiques and and get recognized for awards.

I have a question for you. I’m having Nikon D3500 with the kit lens and I took many photographs, none of which are sharp/perfect as I want. I’m also not able to shoot indoors with low light properly… Can you help me? I would like to know about the things I should do to produce sharp and good photos. Last but not least, here’s one thing that is a perk of quite a few modern 35mm and 50mm prime lenses: they can focus quite close, and they don’t lose any of their amazing sharpness even when set to their closest distance. The Tamron SP 35mm’s actual magnification may not qualify it as an official macro lens, but the ultra-shallow DOF is more than enough for beautiful close-up photography, for most photographers. The Nikon AF-S 35mm f1.4G is sealed against dust and moisture, so it's a great companion for similarly sealed bodies even when they are used in dusty locales or less-than-ideal weather conditions.



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