Copper: Copper is a sturdy metal that gives a roof a unique look. When used as a drip edge, it should be a minimum of 0.69 mm or 20 ounces. Step One : Gently lift up the shingles on the edge of the roof and locate the nails holding the existing drip edge onto the roof. There are a few elements that come into play that cause water to run behind the gutter. The first cause is when the roofing material is installed, many roofers will not extend the roofing material past the roof edging or drip edge. In some instances, by no fault of the roofing contractors, they are in compliance with the manufacturer’s recommended installation specifications. In years past, many building codes did not require drip edges; but the roofing community realized that these relatively inexpensive products make a big difference in the performance of the roof. By installing drip edges properly, you’ll be giving your customers a better roofing system.

Ideal for Professional Roofers & DIY Roofers alike, the product is very easy to install, just cut to length.Sure Edge Gutter Drip Trim provides a fast, clean, simple finish to the flat roofing system. If you’ve discovered your roof is missing a drip edge, or has a damaged drip edge, you can get in touch with a roofing contractor through our Roofing Contractor Locator to get professional advice. From my early child hood, I remember traveling with my Dad in his Chevy van to buy his first gutter machine. Since then I continued to work by his side in our family business. From humble beginnings, we have grown into a well respected industry leader in the manufacturing of a variety of rainwear and other exterior building products.Step Three: Use roofing nails to secure the drip edge. Ideally, you’d nail about every 12 inches, and in no circumstances should you have 16 inches or more between nails. While plastic, vinyl and fiberglass drip edges may also be available in your area, these materials are best suited for use in nonroofing applications, such as above doors and windows. I am also a very well known technician in the rainwear industry for sales and service of seamless gutter machines. In my spare time, I still continue to do installations for local contractors and home owners. I guess you could say it’s in my blood. Step Four : Install the new drip edge as described above, with cement and nails. You’ll need to ask another roofing professional to hold up the shingles while you do so.

Step Eleven: Fold the drip edge to fit over the ridge. Mark the plumb line, or centerline, as in the image below. Cut the topmost part of the drip edge along this line to create a finished look. Place a single nail in the outside piece to hold the drip edge in place.Roof drip edges are generally sold in 10.5-foot lengths, but they are occasionally sold in 8-foot lengths or smaller. The length of the overhang itself commonly ranges from 2 to 5 inches. You may find other styles and sizes of drip edges in the store, including “J-channel” drip edges, but these are intended for windows, doors and other applications. You may also find vented drip edges, but the National Roofing Contractors Association (NRCA) does not recommend using them on roofs. Step Six: Install the drip edge as normal. Then, bend in the flap of the drip edge to form a corner. You will complete this corner when you install the drip edges on the rakes. Step Two: Install drip edges on the eaves first. Place the drip edge down, aligning it so water will drip into the gutters. The end with the flange or flare should point down and away from the roof. The other element is if the gutter is not installed behind the drip edge it creates an air gap between the top of the gutter and the bottom of the drip edge which allows a place for the water to go. Being a manufacturer of roof edgings and an installer of gutters, I know first hand it’s not always possible to get the gutter behind the drip edge and have it drain properly. How does the water get there?

Step Ten: When you reach the roof’s ridge, you need to make yet another cut in your drip edge. Hold the drip edge up to the ridge and make a mark along where the drip edge exceeds the roof. Make a straight cut through the bottom of the drip edge with your tin snips. Type C: This is the classic “L”-shaped drip edge, sometimes called “L style.” This drip edge is bent to a 90-degree angle and has a lower flange at the bottom.What if you need to replace the drip edge on an existing roof or install a drip edge on an existing roof for the first time? It can be done; here’s how: There are three basic profiles of drip edge flashing, but each goes by more than one name, which can be confusing. Drip edges are made of various plastics and metals, which are both acceptable under most building codes so long as the metals are corrosion-resistant or galvanized.

We can only provide a delivery date and are not able to confirm the time delivery will be attempted. Therefore, we ask that somebody is able to accept and sign for your items throughout the started delivery date. Type D: This profile of drip edge is shaped like a “T,” with a lower flange at the bottom. Sometimes it is called drip metal, “D-metal” or “T style.” The Asphalt Roofing Manufacturers Association (ARMA) prefers this drip edge profile to Type C because it keeps the water further away from the fascia. However, Type C is still acceptable according to most building codes. You're able to select a preferreddelivery date in your shopping basket. Whilst we aim to deliver your items on this date, it is not guaranteed. Step One: If using a Type C drip edge, you can install a furring strip to increase its performance. A furring edge is a strip of one-by-two wood you install on the vertical surface of the house just beneath the roof’s edge. When you install the drip edge over this strip, it keeps the lower flange further from the home’s siding, which helps to keep water further from the home. Aluminum: A common material for drip edges, aluminum isn’t as strong as steel. It doesn’t corrode and is often sold in colors that match the rest of the home exactly.Step Four: When you reach a corner where an eave and rake edge meet, you need to make a cut to ensure a proper fit. First, place your drip edge on the rake edge. Mark where the drip edge begins to overhang and one inch further out from that overhang. Drip edges are metal sheets, usually shaped like an “L,” installed at the edge of the roof. Also called drip edge flashing or D-metal, they serve a vital function by directing water away from the fascia and into the gutter. Without a drip edge, water may end up beneath the shingles and may cause damage to various parts of the home. Though your home may not have originally had a drip edge installed, drip edges are now required by most building codes across North America to protect homes from damage. Step Five: Cut the entire drip edge by your second mark, so that it only hangs past the edge by an inch. Then, cut out the topmost portion of the drip edge by your first mark. Then, make a perpendicular cut, so that you can remove a square of the drip edge, as you see in the image below.