I left the factory lube on like Sheldon Brown suggests, but after as little at 200 miles the chain was already 0.5% stretched. In general you should always clean your chain thoroughly before lubricating it if you're using conventional lube; lubing a dirty chain will just wash grit into the links where it causes wear.

Finish Line Teflon Plus Dry Chain Lube 240ml

hawkinspeter replied to Argus Tuft: I've tried paraffin wax myself, but I didn't use any solvent with it. I used to melt the wax in a small frying pan and put the chain in it. Then, sprinkle some micronised graphite on top of the chain and put some paraffin wax granules on top so that they melt and carry the graphite into the chain. Swill around a bit and then remove the chain and let it cool. Once cool, spend a bit of time removing excess wax and flexing each joint of the chain and then pop it on the bike. Wet Lubes – Generally a longer-term and harder-wearing lubricant, a quality wet lube can withstand the rigours of a long day in the saddle including rides of 150+km. This is more suitable for wet conditions and extreme riding situations such as racing and ultra endurance missions. Finish Line’s Wet bike lubricant is in a green bottle and features super-durable synthetic oils, special polymers and anti-wear agents. With pro teams such as Orica-Scott, Trek Factory Racing and BMC Racing Team using it, you can be sure this is of supreme quality. Chains should be wiped clean and re-lubed every 3 to 5 rides depending upon conditions.Many people were using motor oil, some were using cooking oil, some were using hot-wax dipping,” Krause told Bicycling. If you’re a regular commuter or a year-round long distance cyclist, then a wet lube is going to be our tip for you. It will not only last longer but also handle any weather conditions. PRSboy: Squirt seems to be the holy grail of lubes, as long as you don't mind reapplying after a wet ride. I've been most impressed. matthewn5: Singer sewing machine oil. Cheap and lasts for ever. I use Muc-off wet lube as a flushing oil to clean the chain, wipe it off, then apply sewing maching oil, wiping off excess. The chain feels so plush afterwards, it's lovely. From a cost/benefit viewpoint, there's no point spending more on hi-tec unguents than you're saving on drivetrain wear.

Lube for drivetrains : r/cycling - Reddit Lube for drivetrains : r/cycling - Reddit

On the other hand, dry bike chain lubricants contain a small amount of oil, additives that let it dry and set up with a “wax-like film,” other additives to help prevent corrosion, and a solid to help with lubrication. These solids are usually a mix of PTFE (like Teflon), synthetic ceramic (like Boron Nitride), molybdenum, or graphite. They reduce friction between the chain’s metal surfaces by acting as a boundary. Teflon has typically been used, but Krause said that his company is moving towards focusing more on ceramics, specifically Boron Nitride, because it’s proving to be even more effective. (Similarly, you’ll find synthetic ceramics widely used in cookware, coatings on cars, and more.) I was a devout R&R gold user and ran a long term test using the stuff according to their instructions which don't mention cleaning – just flooding on and wiping off – versus the same lube with a weekly clean in one of those round brushy things (two different bikes run concurrently). Chain wear measured by steel rule.Dry Lubes – Despite the name, these go on wet and set dry. Finish Line’s dry lube (in the red bottle) provides penetrating lubrication and is made from a mix of synthetic oils and Teflon. Finish Line dry is a versatile lube that can be used on chains, shifters, brake pivot points and derailleurs. Dry lubes generally need to be applied more often and obviously perform best on a clean chain. As with any products, you should follow the instructions because generally it’s recommended to start with a clean chain before applying lube, rather than just layering it up. Do I really need to lube my chain? BehindTheBikesheds replied to StraelGuy: Only a thousand miles, christ what are you riding through dust, dirt, mud, rain with road salt for good measure and not wiping post ride or any cleaning at all?

Best bike chain lubes 2023 — keep your drivetrain happy so it

Every time Ceramic Wax is applied to the chain, the ceramic coating is enhanced, ultimately providing the durability of many oil-based lubricants. I've now switched over to using DryFluid which is a special slide lubricant that although expensive lasts really well and is easy to apply and stays nice and clean. A friend of mine was doing that years ago, and suffered third degree facial burns when it caught fire as she was heating it. Be *very* careful. If you need a wet chain lube, then the WD-40 Specialist Bike Wet Chain Lube makes a remarkable choice. The lube works by forming a durable coating that repels mud and water to protect your chain’s structural integrity. This no-wax formula will not accumulate in the drivetrain and chain links, to keep you riding in wet conditions with confidence. It also prevents friction to enhance the life of your chain. Conventional wisdom points to a wet lube for wet winter cycling, and a dry lube for summer cycling when it’s dry and conditions are good. It’s a good rule of thumb to follow and you won’t go wrong if you choose this approach. Cafe wisdom: road.cc readers weigh in on chain lubricantsI use RnR gold, RnR red, Muc Off wet, Muc Off dry. Pretty lazy cleaning and applying but when used even the filthiest chain sets smooth out.

Best Bike Chain Lubes to Spin Smoothly - The Manual The 8 Best Bike Chain Lubes to Spin Smoothly - The Manual

And if you’re wondering why you can’t use WD40 or GT85, they’re water displacement products and should only really be used after cleaning your bike and before correct lubrication. They have some lubricating properties, and plenty of uses on bikes and round the house, but they're not up to the job of keeping a bike chain properly protected. This really is one thing where dirt cheap is actually technically superior to all the potions, lotions and sauces they sell by the ounce. The only genuine hassle is the first degrease and clean - but you were doing that between regular lubes already, no? Thereafter I just pre-rinse the chain in boiling water, then rewax. Argus Tuft: Dissolve a rounded teaspoon of grated paraffin wax in 100ml of shellite (I don't know what it's called over there – Stoddard's Solvent?). Using pliers, carefully pull the nozzle out of a R&R lube bottle and refill using a small funnel. Close enough to free. A small amount of moly or bearing grease – less is more – makes it even better. Squirt lube easily survived 30-odd miles of normal commuting in all weathers, at which point it faced about the sternest test possible: 40 miles in the salt, snow and rain finishing up on the muddy, puddle-strewn canal towpath. I wouldn't expect any lube to survive that and the chain showed some evidence of rust the next day after a hose down, but it wasn't noisy - there was still some lube in there, so it's pretty tenacious stuff. a) If we have sent you the incorrect bicycle, we will cover the cost of collection and delivery of the correct model.Rian_constant replied to PRSboy: Wax-based lubricants are the first choice for summer bikes. Advantages of wax without the hassle and dangers of melting wax. Reapplying is done in less than a minute. Thorough cleaning seems more important than choice of chainlube. You can wipe the chain down till you're blue in the face but the damaging grit is on the INSIDE. He was heavily involved in the mountain bike boom of the late 1980s as a racer, team manager and race promoter, and that led to writing for Mountain Biking UK magazine shortly after its inception. He got the gig by phoning up the editor and telling him the magazine was rubbish and he could do better. Rather than telling him to get lost, MBUK editor Tym Manley called John’s bluff and the rest is history. Aerodynamic, or wind drag, is the biggest obstacle to going fast. Friction in the drivetrain also contributes to overall drag but a modern drivetrain is in the region of 90-98% efficient, depending on the condition of the chain and several other factors. I really rate Prolink ProGold if you just want a liquid lube that's clean and good in every condition. However, I've recently been using the Muc Off ceramic dry as I had about a bazillion samples to use up and I have to say I'd really forgotten how good it is both on and off road at this time of year.