Now, grab your other bottle of lube, Finish Line’s wet chain lube (Phil’s oil also works fine but it’s double the cost with no noticeable benefit) and apply a thin stream of that to the chain. Get it fully coated, but you don’t need a gallon of the stuff. Just make sure the rollers and side plates are covered with a thin layer. Wipe off the excess, good to go. Oh boy, you wouldn't like how I got only 500 miles out of my last chain (Shimano HG40) before it was stretched 1%. That's with obsessive wiping after every ride. On a city bike.

ProGold ProLink Chain Lube review | off-road.cc

From a cost/benefit viewpoint, there's no point spending more on hi-tec unguents than you're saving on drivetrain wear.John has been writing about bikes and cycling for over 30 years since discovering that people were mug enough to pay him for it rather than expecting him to do an honest day's work. Argus Tuft replied to hawkinspeter: Ta HP - I found it worked as well as the bought stuff.I've moved on to using a home made "candle" of wax with a dash of grease applied to a chain freshly warmed with a heat gun. Any dirt seems to fall away. No cleaning required. Use a suitable heat shield between chain and wheel. Boatsie: I used vegetable oil once. Smooth as.. At end of ride I must have collected a sandbox worth of sand though.. Grindy as. I had been using White Lightning. Perhaps putting ProLink over that was a mistake. Whatever, drivetrain noise increased and shifting deteriorated. I seemed to need to reapply after 100 miles or less, contrasted with 200 miles or so for WL. Ice Wax 2.0 from Pedro's is a chain lubricant that aims to reduce the time you spend cleaning your chain, by doing it for you in part. A lube for dry conditions, it's perfect for summer riding.

Mountain Bike Chain Lubes, Greases, and Cleaners The Best Mountain Bike Chain Lubes, Greases, and Cleaners

mikepridmorewood: I've had 10,000k out of a chain by cleaning with wet wipes and lubricating with GT85 Prior to a training ride, I scrubbed the chain completely clean, then oiled with ProLink. 40 miles later, I put Results from wiping a clean chain with 40 miles on it. Out on the road is the real test. I have tested this lube in dry conditions, windy conditions, sand, rain, have ridden through mud, dirt, grit and gravel. I have hammered on flat time trials and pushed all kinds of gearing up steep hills, just to see Xtreme is more waterproof than ProLink and should be considered by cyclists riding in wet conditions, cyclocross Mungecrundle: Having run out of dry lube, I used some Wurth motorcycle chain wax and have been using it ever since. Dries in a few minutes, keeps the chain clean and running smoothly. Only shortcoming is that as a spray lube you need to be careful that it doesn't get to where it isn't supposed to be.I've now switched over to using DryFluid which is a special slide lubricant that although expensive lasts really well and is easy to apply and stays nice and clean. Conventional wisdom points to a wet lube for wet winter cycling, and a dry lube for summer cycling when it’s dry and conditions are good. It’s a good rule of thumb to follow and you won’t go wrong if you choose this approach. Cafe wisdom: road.cc readers weigh in on chain lubricants