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If you've ever done a DIY, you probably know at this point that the first step is to measure—and that you should really measure twice before making the first cut! Now that you have three sides sewn, reach into the bottom corner sand flip the curtain right side out! It is helpful to ask the fabric supplier to cut your fabric into the drops you need so when you are ready to start, your fabric is ready to sew.
With an even number of eyelets, the left and right sides of the curtain panel will fold neatly back towards the wall.Fold the top fabric over 3 1/4 inches, pin, and sew along the fabric's edge so that a pocket forms between the top of the curtain and the stitch. Carefully selecting a suitable thread colour, machine a straight stitch through all layers across the top and across the bottom of the heading tape, handling the curtain through the sewing machine with heading tape uppermost. This is easy – you sew on pencil pleat curtain header tape to the top of your curtains, pull the strings attached to the header tape, and voila!
Using a steel tape measure off from the bottom up, the required finished length of the curtain and turn the top of the curtain over, lining and fabric together, to this measurement. If you measured 60 in (150 cm) from the curtain rod to the floor, your new length will be 76 in (190 cm).Do not trim shorter than you need, since the “spare” fabric can come to the rescue should your curtains ever shrink after being dry cleaned. Cut a rectangle of your curtain fabric to these measurements, and then cut the lining fabric three inches shorter than the fabric (but the same width). Shake and smooth out the curtain so that the lining (now narrower than the curtain) sits centrally behind the main curtain.