I might of found a solution to your problem on reddit. you need to edit the printer.cfg file on the sonic pad with these updates (they worked for me with a bit of fine tuning) [stepper_x] Metal single-gear extruder, which is a drop in replacement with no firmware updates needed ( upgrade instructions here)

Sprite Extruder Pro Kit 300℃ High Temperature | Full Metal

Klipperis an open-source firmware for your 3D printer that combines the power of a Raspberry Piand your printer mainboard for better printer control. By doing this, you are able to run your printer at higher speeds with better precision and control. Why Install Klipper on Creality Ender 3 S1? Plug in the SD card and turn the printer on. This will trigger the board firmware update and the firmware will be flashed. It takes around 30 seconds. IdeaMaker Klipper Profile for Ender 3 S1 You can find it here: https://www.3djake.uk/creality-3d-printers-spare-parts/sprite-extruder-pro-upgrade-kit Speaking about the gears, these are not the regular BMG cloned gears. It seems that Creality designed their own gears which are a bit larger and they don’t have the rounded profile for gripping the filament more efficiently. At first look, they remind me of the gears used on the Orbiter Extruder. Easier to upgrade and maintain, since the hot end and extruder can be modified independently and use simpler designs.Remove the extruder motor cable from the existing Bowden extruder motor, and attach the included extension cable. Connect the extension cable to the Sprite extruder motor. Bowden extruders are mounted separately from the print head, typically on the side of the printer, and route filament to the hot end using PTFE tubing (otherwise known as the Bowden tube). The metal dual-gear upgrade requires setting the E-steps due to the smaller radius of the toothed gear. Doesn't by default fit on all Enders. Might need to switch out some bolts on gantry to flatter ones so it can utilize the entire X axis. Had this problem with my Ender 3 Max.

Extruder Types and Upgrade Guide — Creality Experts Creality Extruder Types and Upgrade Guide — Creality Experts

After installing the new hot end and carriage and setting the probe offsets and z offsets as well as the new e-step settings for the dual gear extruder and also doing some PID auto-tuning, I set me first print for a calibration cube. Everything seems to be working fine and the CR Touch began probing the bed and at the 5th probe spot, I could hear what sounded like the carriage over traveling the x gantry and the stepper motor stuttered a bit. Definitely sounded like it tried to push the carriage past the max distance it could go and the belt was slipping or something. Then it goes for the 5th probe and after it probes, I get a print failed message. As you can see, the Nema17 pancake stepper motor is customized for the Sprite extruder with slots for installing the bearing that keeps the gear aligned. In the images below you can see that the filament path and gears are not correctly aligned, but this is caused by the pressure made by the spring which holds the idler. When the extruder is coupled with the motor, everything lines up correctly. The articles also cover the installation of KIAUH which is a handy tool to have when running Klipper. Prepare and install Klipper firmware for Ender 3 S1 Configure Klipper for Ender 3 S1 With the tensioner, you can adjust the pressure exerted on the filament by the drive gears according to your wishes and requirements, thus printing more precise models. Another thing you may want to change (after troubleshooting) is the PROBING_MARGIN. I measured the range the clips occupied and it was about 2cm, so I left it at that.

As you can see in the images below, the heat break heatsink reached a temperature of ~41C which is better than I was expecting. It seems that the tiny radial part cooling paired with the airflow over the heatsink gives excellent results. The environmental temperature was ~21C.

Sprite Extruder-Only Install Guide — Creality Experts Creality Sprite Extruder-Only Install Guide — Creality Experts

Some of the settings take a while to dial in (e-step for the feed rate and z-probe for autolevel devices). Using Marlin commands helps The simpler design means they are typically less expensive and result in a lower total printer cost. Does require a bit of tweaking of the printer configuration to get Z offset and Steps/mm correctly but there's plenty of videos on youtube. Hardware wise its a fairly straight foward install. Here, we'll be saying, "Hey, motherboard? Ma'am? Wherever the nozzle stops, that's not it. Move the bed about a centimetre."For the Sprite Pro extruder, you get the aluminum body with a titanium heat break while on the regular extruder you get a plastic body and a PTFE lined heat break. Thank you so much! It is great and works perfect. I only have a “issue” that the top surface is not that good. Any idea how to improve? Top Surface Solid Fill Layers to 2? https://imgur.com/a/fMPTYYJ The Sprite Pro Extruder body is also made from cast aluminum for more resistance to heat and maybe make it a bit stiffer. Filament path is correctly constrained, and paired with the short distance from the gears to the nozzle makes the Sprite Extruder a good performer when printing TPU filament.