Games Workshop Citadel Bombe sous-couche - Aérosol Contrast Wraithbone

Product Information

Contrast paints really benefit from a smooth primer (as do washes, as you can see). I also applied Guilliman Flesh over Wraithbone base paint. As a lot of layers were needed for perfect coverage, the finish wasn’t as smooth as with Wraithbone spray primer. You can see the Guilliman Flesh dried more uneven because of that. Sealing the surface with a coat of satin varnish might help to reduce this effect. Since the Contrasts are all for intents and purposes glorified inks, and they work by staining on the high areas and gathering in the low areas, the color of primer underneath is just there to facilitate that. As long as the primer is light enough, the Contrasts at least in my opinion tend to "overcome" most of the differences between like a light gray primer vs. a light tan primer or white primer. I've had contrast colours work just fine on corax white and as far as I know the primers of other companies are already smoother that gw's cw, which is where that issue comes from. All in all, the results are very nice for the high tabletop standard I usually go for. It also saved me a lot of time by combining base colour and shading in one go, especially on the orange clothes – even over white primer, it takes several layers of achieving an even coat of orange. With Contrast, it’s just a single coat straight from the pot (or two, in my case, to make the colour even richer). Citadel Contrast review: value What I'm looking for is a substitute spray which looks as close to wraithbone as possible, or rather produces the same tone after I put on the colours.

Regarding zenithal: I keep reading that it supposedly works very well with Contrast colors. I assume you have to dillute them a bit for that purpose. So it is something I would try with bigger miniatures and bigger surfaces, where Contrasts themselves would seem to be less efficient. Regiments I will probably undercoat with a single color, depending on the miniatures.

The Medium

But rather than go into any rambling about different results with different colors, here's a list of the primers I've used quite successfully with all the Contrasts: Wash your brushes a lot, as the high-pigmented paint will easily creep up into the ferrule of your brush. To start, I primed the doorway with Wraithbone spray and then touched it up with some more Wraithbone out of the pot.

With that, your doorway is ready for the catacombs. This colour scheme can be applied to any of the other stone pieces from the set, like the Arms Stash. I’m even thinking of painting all of my Warcry ruins in the same way. First and most importantly, a good spray primer should be easy to apply, cover well, and dry out thin and smooth so that no detail is lost. There should be some leeway if conditions such as humidity or temperature are not ideal, or if you accidentally spray on too much paint. Good self-levelling properties are important.Now when I say the Contrasts look "different" over different primer colors, it's pretty subjective. I would bet a lot of gamers would have a hard time when looking at an entire army of Contrast-painted models and be able to tell which had Wraithbone underneath and which had Grey Seer, etc. I'm thinking about going fully experimental and also buy vallejo desert sand or something similar, for a zenithal sand -> skeleton bone -> bone white. Do you think this will be worth a try? When the basecoat is smooth, most Contrast paints will dry with a surprisingly smooth and even finish. However, like washes, Contrast paints still have a tendency to pool on larger flat surfaces. Soak up any excess paint with a clean brush to reduce the amount of pooling. Citadel Contrast paints are therefore the most expensive miniature paint on the market – by far! The Army Painter and Vallejo paints cost less than half per ml. Lastly, I finished the stone with a lighter drybrush of Pallid Wych Flesh to catch the corners and give it a final highlight.

The Tamiya gray spray primer is so light that it practically qualifies as being white. It's actually whiter than GW's Corax White even though its labeled as a gray primer, lol. Yes indeed, I've successfully used many different primers with the Contrasts. I've been amazed at their versatility. With battles exploding around ruins all over the realms thanks to the headstrong Dawnbringer Crusades, you’re likely going to be painting a lot of stone terrain. Whether it’s for the battlefields of the Mortal Realms or the locales of the impending release of Kill Team, hobbyist extraordinaire Tyler Mengel has some straightforward but effective steps that will make your stone look like it was carved yesterday. Note particularly what he does with the green ink. As I said I don't think that would work with a Contrast because the Contrast would kill most of the Zenithal underneath. The thinness of the ink is what allows the Zenithal to show up. Contrasts might be too strong for this. Having said that, like washes, Contrast paints work best on models with a lot of texture, organic details like fur, hair, scales, muscles, clothes with a lot of creases, segmented armour and the like.Wraithbone or Grey Seer primer helps but isn’t necessary, so feel free to experiment with other base colours and light primers. For the best results, read the instructions on the can thoroughly. As a rule of thumb, shake your spray cans at least for a minute, spray from a distance of about 20 cm, and apply multiple thin coats, leaving each coat dry for at least 15 to 30 minutes. Use spray paints only in well ventilated areas und avoid over hot or cold temperatures and high levels of humidity. Once your done spraying, empty the nozzle by holding the can upside-down until only clear propellant comes out, and perhaps most importantly, invest in a rebreather mask that is suitable for filtering paint fumes. The pigments used for Contrast paints are really strong and vibrant. In comparison to Citadel Shades or other washes, Contrast Paints have a slightly higher viscosity, which means they are not as “runny”. I recommend washing your brushes a lot when using them, as the heavily pigmented paint easily creeps up into the ferrule of your brush, where it might dry and make short work of the bristles.