Rubberized central wheel with ribs but a bit narrow. Its full turn amounts to 490 degrees. A classic ocular bridge which moves smoothly, evenly, without any side play. The pressure applied on it doesn’t defocus the binoculars. Individual focusing on the right eyepiece; it is comfortable but it moves the outer lens. Next I examined the exit pupils of both barrels of the Nikon E II. Below are images taken of the left and right pupils. Left exit pupil. Right exit pupil.

Wydawcą allbinos.com jest firma CO-NET Robert Olech. Adres wydawcy oraz redakcji: ul. Żwirki i Wigury 11/34 83-000 Pruszcz Gdański To my eyes, the EII offers the superior optics. I can see finer detail with it... I'll call it the sharper image or the clearer image..., and the image appears more crystal. If you want a full-frame mirrorless but have a limited budget, you could try the Nikon Z5. With this, you get a well-performing full-frame sensor and similar great handling as the more expensive Z6 II, but with some key compromises. The pupils look nice and round, with little in the way of extraneous stray light encroaching on them. The reader can make out some weak reflections from the prisms quite a bit away from the pupils and so will have minimal effect on the views. Build quality. 30 years of warranty for the Habicht. Bulletproof. The Nikon feels nice in the hands, build quality seems very good, but I would not want to drop it. I admit this is pure gut feeling.

How to choose a Nikon mirrorless camera – key specs explained

Now with the sad demise of the Nikon SE and the vanishing of quality porros, I do wish for this: Nikon, please at least update the coatings, bring them to Habicht level, insure tight quality control, and finally give us some decent plastic eyecups. Increase the price by 50% to cover for all this, and we will all be happy. What you do get is a good performer for static subjects, and access to the full-frame system without spending a fortune – which makes it ideal for beginners and those upgrading to full-frame for the first time. While the autofocus system offers the same 273 phase detection AF points as the previous Z6, it boasts an improved algorithm. In use, the system is reliably accurate and generally seems to intuit your intentions much better than the Z6 ever did. Having Face- and Eye-detection is also handy, especially for street and portrait work. Submit a valuation request and we'll provide guide prices with no delay. Plus, we'll collect your gear from your home or work for FREE. I think (with some exceptions) there seems to be a consensus that the EII 8x30 are very nice binoculars. I've surely enjoyed mine over the last 4 years. As for their worthiness, well that's a difficult and personal question (which is why I guess it was asked in the first place).

Any niggles at all? Not really! OK, It’s not waterproof, and I would have liked to see some rubber armouring covering the chassis, but I guess that might put some folk off( yes, some folk care more about how a binocular looks than what it delivers optically, I kid you not!). I’ve recently acquired an excellent Opticron SR.GA 8 x 32 porro that does have this armouring, which will help protect it against the elements that little bit better. It too delivers very fine images, just a notch below those served up by the Nikon. But in all honesty, simple common sense is all that’s required to keep it safe from the worst of the weather and more careful attention to long-term storage of the binocular will help keep it in tip-top shape. The short answer is ‘Yes’. And I posted about it in detail here: https://www.birdforu...ad.php?t=381049 not using modern glass (not noticable when *critically* focused, but I feel modern glass would allow more sloppy focussing on white birds or other high contrast objects) I began my optical tests by shining a bright white light source through the binocular and examining the visual image produced. The result was excellent; there were no annoying internal reflections, diffraction spikes or diffused light around the light source, showing that the anti-reflection coatings were performing well and that the glass was very homogeneous. This was confirmed after dark by looking at a bright yellow sodium street lamp. The image was clean and nicely contrasted with no internal reflections. Indeed, porro prism models do not produce diffraction spikes unlike some premium roof prism models. aren’t. In fact, apart from Nikon’s own EII, you’d have to go to Swarovski Habichtsto get this quality in a porro-prism binocular now.At 10m distance angle B is given by Arctan(0.0625/10) = 0.36 degrees or 21.5’ and angle A is given by Arctan (0.0625/15) = 0.24 degrees or 14.3’