You can buy products in Halfords to seal leaks. There is no need to drain the coolant, just remove enough from the filler tank and add and follow the instructions. There is a lot of pressure in the cylinder head so how effective a seal you could get here is debateable, Coolant also helps keep your engine working as efficiently as possible, helps keep its emissions low, and even helps provide that toasty heater air on cold days.

Further to my last post, the bubbling coolant has continued but in all honesty I am not too fussed as long as the car can last me another 3-4 months. My main concern is that if I drive it without the internal fan on to accommodate for some of the extra heat, the temperature of the engine (on the dashboard, at least) begins to very slowly climb above 90 degrees. It remains on 90 if I keep the fan on, but the engine fan creates a hell of a noise (not that it matters if it is working). Now it is getting towards summer I am starting to get fed up of absolutely roasting in my car every time I go to/from work so am looking for an answer, however, given my problems with previous mechanics and the fact that I have already paid out a few hundred pounds on this issue I wanted to ask the advice of you guys before having a paid mechanic come and look again. The Internyet has many instances of cars that are difficult, for which the pro fix is a vacuum pump. The vid link (a Jeep Liberty IIRC) I give above is just one example. Yes thats why its called an expansion tank! When cold it should be at max level or close too in use it should not go below min level Its not really a compression tester as the term is usually used. Its testing for radiator pressurisation, with a FSD of 5 psi, so it'd be more sensitive to damage than a compression test, but perhaps still not sensitive enough.I daresay. But one can't conclude that, because it always worked on Vauxhalls, it will always work on everything. I did, however, realise that there are sometimes no bleed points, because I think that's all I've ever had on any of my cars. Can't remember it being a problem before. Only reasonably practical desperate improvisation I can think of would be removing the thermostat. This will potentially increase circulation in the cooling circuit, allowing it to remove more heat.

Roll up or remove loose clothing, and keep your arms away from the cooling fan(s). Fans can turn on automatically, even when the engine is off. If it were mine I would keep a close eye on the coolant. Your engine will only overheat if you loose a significant amountThe OP is unlikely to want to bother with that though, especially as he already has some blowing from the coolant reservoir so couldn’t easily detect any local boiling due to modification. Bit like windscreen wash can buy it concentrated or ready mixed strength depends on environment. Advantage premix you don't have to test it with an antifreeze strength tester. Going by the radiator cap pressure in the cooling system is likely to be lower than oil pressure, so you might not get much coolant going the other way, plus coolant in the oil will probably be less visible, initially at least. The puzzling aspect is the leak stopper suggestion. AFAIK there's no leak stopper to seal from within the combustion chamber (There are goos that are supposed to restore some compression but I THINK they are supposed to seal the rings). I've had 2 or 3 serious overheating incidents due to failed repairs on the fan control circuit, so I'm expecting a head gasket failure.

So much confusion over a simple system! I take it none of you are plumbers or heating engineers? It works exactly the same way as your hot water tank or central heating radiators at home. That'd be a false negative. Probably more likely than a false positive, which would require contamination with coolant or old test fluid So I've recently had a coolant leak repaired on my 2008 model Ford fiesta where the mechanic noted that the water pump and thermostat needed replacing. Having had those replaced and my car returned to me, the leak has stopped however the coolant has begun to boil/bubble after driving the ~30 minute journey to/from work (~20 miles each way). If the coolant level is low, add the correct coolant to the reservoir (not the radiator itself). You can use diluted coolant by itself or a 50/50 mixture of concentrated coolant and distilled water.

Fuel Calculator

Right at the beginning of this thread I suspected CHG failure. I think paul 1963 (post above) is spot on. The symptoms described are a classic example of a tiny defect appearing. Note that I’m assuming a “classic” mechanical thermostat here. If its something more modern, perhaps controlled via satellite downlink from a CIA Cray Supercomputer at Langley, this may not be possible.)

When your engine is running, it makes power—but it also makes heat. And that’s where engine coolant comes in. IF you aren''t losing'coolant, I don't quite see what the leak stopper is for. I suppose if an undetectable amount of coolant is passing into the combustion chamber some leak stopper would be drawn in too, but it doesn't seem very likely to seal against combustion pressures. If you need to repair your car’s air conditioning, we have all the parts you could want, including accumulators, actuators and compressors. It will however, also slow your engines warmup times, and if you’ve got any starting difficulties now, perhaps from a bit of coolant getting into the cylinders, they’ll probably get worse. This may be tolerable, at least for the summer.I have a couple of fridge compressors that I could try, but I'm getting used to the boiling method so I probably won't bother.. Water line is just below min too so I better get it filled (I suspect that when I have been taking it in for it's oil change, they havent been topping up the water as they can't get it off! unclip the two upper hoses by hand, unclip tank from the holding plates, drain in jar through the openings where you unclipped the houses, use the pliers to unclamp the main hose, pull the tank away from the hose. Install the new tank.